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FAV6800AWW Clutch Issue - Signs of Water Leak

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I have a Maytag Neptune Model FAV6800AWW, Serial # starts with "16". Per other topics on this forum, there were

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Old 04-18-2011, 07:11 AM
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Default FAV6800AWW Clutch Issue - Signs of Water Leak
Model Number: FAV6800AWW   Brand: Maytag   Age: 5 - 10 years   

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I have a Maytag Neptune Model FAV6800AWW, Serial # starts with "16". Per other topics on this forum, there were issues with the Off-balance indicator during spin. I removed the clutch and found the steel pin at the end of the spring to be moving freely within the clutch, so I need to request a new clutch. Question # 1 is do I need to order the full assembly (AP4009131) or do I only need the clutch (AP4310552).

Also, a secondary question. When taking the clutch apart, I noticed that the bearings were very rusty and completely locked-up. Even though the spring had an issue, I lubed the clutch with WD-40 and it took some work to get this to move again. The rust seemed a bit curious to me. I noticed a lot of white powder in the clutch as well (sign of water previously). After I pulled the clutch apart, I realized that I had not run the drain cycle completely and there was water still in the tub. I then noticed a small drip coming from the bottom of the tub around the area where the clutch is attached. I'm wondering now if part of the problem wasn't simply the age of the clutch but the fact that there's minor water penetration occurring, which caused rusting and other build-up. Does water normally drip from this location or this is a secondary issue that needs to now be addressed?

I'm fairly handy with repairs like this, but I'm not sure if this further leak is something that's relatively simple to fix or whether I need to call a repair technician at this point to fix both? I'm concerned that if I simply replace the clutch that I will have another failure at some point in the future that could have been fixed by a simply O-ring replacement now. If this involves a lot of break-down work on the machine, I'm not sure I'm that comfortable with more disassembly.

Your input and assistance is greatly appreciated.

Thank you, Brian


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  #2 (permalink)  
Old 04-18-2011, 08:57 AM
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Brian,

When you removed the Clutch Pulley did your Series 16 machine use the upper One-Way bearing ring? See 1st pic. I’ll add some pics of what a normal clutch pulley should look like.

“”I'm concerned that if I simply replace the clutch that I will have another failure at some point in the future that could have been fixed by a simply O-ring replacement now””

Yes if you are going to keep the machine read on.

“”If this involves a lot of break-down work on the machine, I'm not sure I'm that comfortable with more disassembly.””

Yes read on to see if this is right for you.

AP4310552 http://www.appliancepartspros.com/part_details.aspx?part_id=4310552 Is the replacement Clutch Pulley I would buy. I would never recommend purchasing the $150+ Clutch pulley unless I had empirical data to support why the $150+ Clutch Pulley made this a better buy.

You have a Tub Seal leak that needs to be addressed and I would recommend a complete Outer Tub rebuild. See this post FAV6800A/FAV9800A Outer Tub bearing replacement and see what is involved to extend the service life of your FAV6800A.

If you decide rebuild the Outer Tub and have any questions I will help out……….Dick
Attached Images
File Type: jpg DSC00896.JPG (35.5 KB, 113 views)
File Type: jpg Series 10 Upper One-Way Roller Clutch ring before clean up..JPG (36.4 KB, 108 views)
File Type: jpg DSC00865.JPG (75.8 KB, 107 views)
File Type: jpg DSC00864.JPG (40.6 KB, 107 views)
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Old 04-18-2011, 10:46 AM
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Dick:

Thank you for the quick follow-up and feedback. I believe the wife plans to keep the FAV6800AWW machine, so I am currently reviewing the Outer Tub Rebild thread you provided - thank you for this reference.

Regarding the question on the upper One-Way bearing ring, if this is the yellowish/greenish ring that sits on the top, then yes, my series 16 machine has this ring on top. This is where I initially saw the heavy rust that seems to be coming from the tub seal. After soaking with a little WD-40, wiping dry, then soaking in a little PB Blaster, it now seems to rotate fine within the rest of the assembly. The metal pin on the end of the spring is broken, thus the need for a replacement. I have all of the pieces noted in your series of pictures.

So, if you purchase the 4310552, do you no longer use the upper One-Way bearing ring, or do you simply attach this to the new clutch, so that it fits like the previous one did? Sorry if this is already obvious but I'm not sure I follow the previous discussions on this. I just want to make sure that I'm not purchasing more than I need to.

Thank you, Brian
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Old 04-18-2011, 11:53 AM
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Hey Brian,
“”Regarding the question on the upper One-Way bearing ring, if this is the yellowish/greenish ring that sits on the top, then yes, my series 16 machine has this ring on top.””

This is real good news, you do not have the redesigned Outer Tub. The Outer Tub rebuild is a bit more straight forward.

""This is where I initially saw the heavy rust that seems to be coming from the tub seal. After soaking with a little WD-40, wiping dry, then soaking in a little PB Blaster, it now seems to rotate fine within the rest of the assembly.””

Make sure the One-Way bearings will allow what I call the Spinner Shaft coupler to rotate freely in one direction and Lock Up Rock Solid in the other. This a very straight forward Clutching assembly but if the One-Way Clutch bearing in the Clutch Pulley hub slips (white bearing plate) you will get agitator shaft rotation as the washer enters a spin cycle followed by the wash load being drug of balance and big time DC/UC unbalance errors.

The spring got stressed I feel by the by the Clutch Pulley mounted One-Way bearing seizing in the wash/agitate direction of Clutch Pulley rotation. I’ll attach a pic of a real bad one that you will see in the FAV6800A/FAV9800A Outer Tub bearing replacement post.

You might get back in service for a while depending how well the One-Way bearings clean up but the real fix is an Outer Tub rebuild and possible a clutch pulley replacement. I recommend Outer Tub bearings and the Spinner Support bearings be replaced with a complete tear down such as this.

“”The metal pin on the end of the spring is broken, thus the need for a replacement. I have all of the pieces noted in your series of pictures.””
Some owners have got back in service by reforming the Stainless Steel spring end. Heat it up and reformed the loop. Never had the issue so no real world experience on that as a possible fix which may be temp.


“”So, if you purchase the 4310552, do you no longer use the upper One-Way bearing ring, or do you simply attach this to the new clutch, so that it fits like the previous one did?””

You will get the Upper Bearing ring as part of the Clutch Pulley Assembly. Bolt it in and you are good to go. Just check the replacement Clutch Pulley assembly by insuring both bearings will Lock up in one direction and rotate freely in the other by rotating the Spinner Shaft Coupler. See my crude pic of the exploded parts labeled.

“”Sorry if this is already obvious but I'm not sure I follow the previous discussions on this. I just want to make sure that I'm not purchasing more than I need to.””

No need to be sorry I’m just an owner like you passing along my hands on experience to extend the service life of a $1K machine……….Dick
Attached Images
File Type: jpg 1. Fav6800AWW Clutch Parts Label.jpg (27.6 KB, 106 views)
File Type: jpg Large Wrap Spring.jpg (43.1 KB, 105 views)
File Type: jpg Large Wrap Spring 2.jpg (45.5 KB, 99 views)
File Type: jpg Clutch One-Way Bearing pic.jpg (42.6 KB, 105 views)
File Type: jpg Upper Bearing ring.jpg (79.1 KB, 106 views)
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