[away]

Originally Posted by drew85205

Just curious, how much did the service call cost?

$69.95, reasonable, except that I was not convinced the control board is the culprit. And next day I was given an estimate/quote of $440 for fixing the problem.

[aussiewhite]

A few interesting ideas, nice post.

Appliance Spare parts,Appliance Repair.

[aussiewhite]

Originally Posted by aussiewhite

A few interesting ideas, nice post.

Appliance Spare parts,Appliance Repair.

Very good blog, really useful.
<a href="http://www.aussiewhitegoodsrescue.com.au/"> Appliance Spare parts,Appliance Repairs</a>

[Joe / APP Team]

Originally Posted by away

Hi,
Don't know where my post went, I will try again.
I am having same problem ("oL") with my Whirlpool Cabrio Washer (wttw6600sw0). The scenario is that the washer does not stop filling water during Wash cycle, it appears being stuck after Wash cycle begins for 10 mins, hence, overloaded with water. Spin and drain appear OK.
I'd ordered and replaced the RPS kit(AP4327312) even though there was not any sign of leakage nor damage, situation does not improve. I also ordered and replaced its processor/control board (W10189966), no improvement either.
Ran manufacturer's manual diagnostic test (#6) that supposed to recalibrate the water level and Pressure Transducer.
Failed manufacturer's automatic diagnostic test C1.
A Maytag repair person came on site and charged me for a house call, his initial conclusion was that I need to replace the control board (which I did already) and quoted me $400+ to fix it. Upon knowing the board is replaced, he mentioned that the board's memory still needs to be reset. Any truth to this?
Please help!
Thanks.
Away

Away,
You have checked and made sure you have good water supply and pressure to the fill valve, from the faucets, and a valve solenoid is not "sticking" open, a quick easy check, unplug the power cord, while the washer is filling in a warm water wash.The valve should "snap" shut.
We're not aware of a need to "reprogram" a new CCU/control board, when replaced. But you can test and recalibrate the water level transducer, if needed, but that's not a normal occurrence either.
You have checked and made sure there are no twists, kinks, holes or loose air dome hose connections, correct. ? You also want to disconnect the air tube from the tub and check the tub connector for deposits and debris, restricting the air flow into and up the tube. and make sure the retainer clip and screw are not too tight or pinching the tube.

Thanks and Good Luck,

[ptesmoke]

I managed to repair my cabrio (basket was stuck on filthy drive shaft ) but I would like to know if I can clear the codes that it caused? or are they forever in the memory?

[Joe / APP Team]

Originally Posted by ptesmoke

I managed to repair my cabrio (basket was stuck on filthy drive shaft ) but I would like to know if I can clear the codes that it caused? or are they forever in the memory?

Ptesmoke, Sorry, the error codes are retained by the memory chip in the control board. The number of error codes is limited, and the older codes will "drop out" and be replaced the the newer codes, the most recent code being first.

Thanks,

[ptesmoke]

awesome thanks for the quick reply!

for anyone's reference in the future...I had f41 and f51 fault codes, running diag check failed on c1 with an oL fail code.

f41 and f51 indicated an rps sensor problem, further investigation found that the basket was stuck in the up most position, followed the manual to disassemble as I was sure the basket being stuck was causing the rps sensor to err out during a normal wash cycle. also note I had no agitation during a normal cycle.

once basket was loosened enough to remove the obvious fault was corrosion on the drive shaft. cleaned and now she works perfect all thanks to allot of info I found here.

cheers and hope my experience helps someone!

[Joe / APP Team]

Originally Posted by ptesmoke

awesome thanks for the quick reply!

for anyone's reference in the future...I had f41 and f51 fault codes, running diag check failed on c1 with an oL fail code.

f41 and f51 indicated an rps sensor problem, further investigation found that the basket was stuck in the up most position, followed the manual to disassemble as I was sure the basket being stuck was causing the rps sensor to err out during a normal wash cycle. also note I had no agitation during a normal cycle.

once basket was loosened enough to remove the obvious fault was corrosion on the drive shaft. cleaned and now she works perfect all thanks to allot of info I found here.

cheers and hope my experience helps someone!

Ptsmoke,
You're Welcome
and Thank You for your update / report. It should be very helpful to those who have a similar issue, once they find their way to the Repair Forum.

Thanks Again,

[BrotherBear]

I had a oL error code (overload code) on my Whirlpool Cabrio. The basket (drum) was not floating up to disengage from the shaft when it was supposed to. The basket should be able to slide up and down independently of the agitator about 1/2 inch when lifted. I was able to remove the agitator as shown here http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D2mxOA-taoo with little effort. But when I tried to pull the basket up and off the shaft it wouldn't budge. I was able to free it by lifting the basket up with one hand while pounding on the end of the shaft with a 3 foot long 4x4. I found that the shaft had rusted to the basket. I sanded up the shaft. Now it works perfectly with no oL code.... until it rusts again someday on that nicely sanded shaft.

[Joe / APP Team]

Originally Posted by BrotherBear

I had a oL error code (overload code) on my Whirlpool Cabrio. The basket (drum) was not floating up to disengage from the shaft when it was supposed to. The basket should be able to slide up and down independently of the agitator about 1/2 inch when lifted. I was able to remove the agitator as shown here How to replace the tub and bearings on a Whirlpool Cabrio (Old Way) - YouTube with little effort. But when I tried to pull the basket up and off the shaft it wouldn't budge. I was able to free it by lifting the basket up with one hand while pounding on the end of the shaft with a 3 foot long 4x4. I found that the shaft had rusted to the basket. I sanded up the shaft. Now it works perfectly with no oL code.... until it rusts again someday on that nicely sanded shaft.

BrotherBear, Thanks for your update. We're glad things went well for you.
Everyone here on the Forum appreciates the updates and service Information and experiences. No repair is exactly the same, evry little bit helps. Thanks Again