[r768]

Maytag FAV6800AWW, SN: 11285717EP Washer ran for a few minutes and timer stopped changing at 24 minutes. The washer will then run for a few seconds and stop again. About a minute later, it will try again for a few seconds and stop. Will Continue this cycle without change until the pause of off button is pressed. Tried unplugging from power for a few minutes and retried, did the same thing. Tried several different wash setting, still had the same results. I found info on manual mode and was able to drain the tub. Tried spin only, time display started at 10 and did not change. The washer ran the same cycle as above. Any help will be most appreciated. Thanks, Rick

[dh1200s]

Rick,

With that same wash load. Place the washer in Spin Only. Will it complete the Spin Only Cycle?

Are you going to try to DIY a fix for the issue? How much down time can you deal with?

If you are going to DIY you will need the FAV6800A/FAV9800A Service Manual. Google this 16022808 Revision 0 December 2003

You will find the Service Manual third or fourth hit. I would then have you go to page 14 of the SM and enter in to Service Mode and run the Quick Spin test and record if your FAV6800A will spin up to 850 RPM (85. on the LED display) with an empty wash basket.

If it does then place some wet load in the wash basket and run the Quick Spin test again and let us know the results.......Dick

[r768]

Thanks for the reply. To answer your questions, I would like to DIY, I have ability and tools, I have time in the evenings and until the social director/project manager (AKA wife) runs out of patience. I decided to add some close and do a quick wash this morning. Figured it would run until the eta timer hit 24 and then I would do the test you suggested. Well the wash complete the full cycle! I ran quick spin tests with the load of wet wash and it completed the test in sequence as per the SM. We had this problem a few months ago and it "fixed it self" then. Now it happen this time and I would like to get it fixed before it dies again.....Thanks Rick

[dh1200s]

Rick,

If this happens again let us know what the Cycle Status Led on the Console indicates for the wash cycle. I remember working an issue like this with and owner on another forum. Same deal failing with time on the display and I believe the issue was caused by Outer Tub bearing drag. I’m shooting from the hip on this one until I find the old post.

As an owner like you with no error code it’s a bit harder to troubleshoot. Since you have been in Service Mode I would go back in SM and record all the diag code blocks then clear the blocks see page 17 of the SM for the process. That might give us a clue.

If this happens again I would like to know if diag. Code block 16 logged and error and record all errors logged for troubleshooting.

Maybe an ART viewing this thread has see this issue with the FAV6800A or FAV9800A Maytag TL and can shed some light on the issue......Dick

[r768]

The cycle status is on wash when it fails. Yesterday before I asked for help here, I read on another post with an unrelated problem, that the tub when empty should turn freely counter clockwise. I found that my tub would feel like it was catching on something but I had wet close in the tub. I emptied the tub and tried again. The tub felt like it was catching the first couple of trys and then started to turn free. Still turns free now. The catching felt like it could be a rough bearing, but it turns free now. I am going to try another load to see what happens. Thanks again for the replies, Most appreciated. Rick

[loujetlag]

Hi guys,
Lou here. I have the exact same problem. I drained the tub using manual mode. Started it up again, but no joy, unlike previous poster. It also will not go through the entire Quick Service Cycle--it jumps from Wash to Spin, then when I push Quick Wash to go to the next cycle, it shows "PA," which I guess means Passed, but obviously not really. Also, the machine takes forever to unlock and I've had to use the "putty knife" method recommended in the Service Manual. Any help would be appreciated. Also, btw, I've read Dick's posts here and elsewhere and they're awesome.
Be well,
Lou

[dh1200s]

Lou,

If you raise the lid and spin the wash basket CCW it should rotate with very little resistance. I do the pinky finger test which is an accepted industry measure of Outer Tub bearing drag….yea right .

See if you can rotate the wash basket CCW thru the lid with your pinky finger. Also rotate the wash basket as fast as you can CCW and see if it continues to rotate CCW for several rotations before coming to a gentle stop. I’m trying to get a feel for Outer Tub bearing resistance/drag.

Can you put the machine in Service Mode and do a Quick Spin test. Let see if the wash basket will spin up to 850 RPM which will be 85. On the LED display. Let’s see what the results are and we will go from there.

“”Also, the machine takes forever to unlock and I've had to use the "putty knife" method recommended in the Service Manual.””

Is the time to unlock around 5 minutes?
Dick

[loujetlag]

Hi Dick,
G'morning. Thx for speedy reply!

Tub does not rotate at all CCW.
Spin test does not get past 40 in any mode.

What do you think it is (bearings?) and how much are parts likely to be?

I'm not sure I have the time to DIY if this is one is bearings, plus the wife is having some health issues and we live in NJ! Snow, ice, etc.

Thoughts?

Thanks again,
Lou

[dh1200s]

Hey Lou,

If you can't rotate the wash basket CCW that' s what it sounds like to me. Did you try it in the CW direction just to make sure? The wash basket should never rotate CW.

Anyway see this post FAV6800A/FAV9800A Outer Tub bearing replacement a couple of forum members are doing an Outer Tub bearing replacement that I have done. I call out parts Tub Seal, Tranny O-ring and 6207-2RS Outer Tub bearings two required. Parts would be in the $50 range. Look for beat price on the 6207-2RS bearings.

See this post for removing the Clutch Pulley Maytag Neptune load unbalance

I would do that and see if the wash basket would rotate CCW to confirm Outer Tub Bearing issues.

I'm in Honey Brook, Pa. same deal with the snow/ice as most folks in the country are having fun with.

Good luck and post back if you decide to DIY the fix........Dick

[dnmll]

Hi this is Mike. I might suggest removing the front panel with a putty knife placed on top on left and right side while lifting top. If you can lean the top back and remove the two 5/16 bolts near the top left and right side of front panel then just pull front panel toward you and off of clips on bottom. It's actually easier than it sounds. Then remove the 3/8 bolt from clutch and wiggle the clutch while pulling down and it will drop. Then you can see if the bearings are stuck or rusted. You can then spin the wash basket and get a feel for those bearings. I can do all of that in less than 5 min. The only hard part will be putting the clutch back on but it's not that hard. I think it is about time to clean clutch bearings with wd40 and lube with slick 50 one lube (napa has it or google it) as this could be the problem. If the clutch bearings are rusted or full of oil then look to a trans o-ring and tub seal. While the clutch is out check to make sure the spring is still connected at both ends and not broken.
Mike