I have searched thru the other "overflow" issues in the database and cannot find one exactly like mine. So here goes.

set the water level to anything (small-super)
set for a regular wash cycle
pull the knob and the tub fills to approx whatever level you set it to and the agitator starts up BUT the water does not stop filling. Will continue until it overflows and never stop. (Initially assumed pressure switch was fine since agitator starts)

I checked the hose to the pressure switch and it is fine. I attach a separate hose to the pressure switch and blow into it (constant pressure). The agitator starts up but water keeps flowing...... so I replaced the pressure switch anyway and it still overflows

I unpluged the washer while filling and the water stops. Plug it back in and water begins filling again and doesnt stop.

I replaced the water inlet valve anyway and it still overflows.

Started the washer and turn the water valves off at the wall after it fills up. Then open the valves when it goes into spin. The water doesnt come on in spin BUT when it gets to the rinse cycle it overflows again.

HELP!

visually checked the hose and removed it from both ends, put a vacuum on it(sucked one end and plugged the other.) Held vacuum

I will check that but expected if it was timer, it would not overflow in both fill and rinse. will test Permanent Press and respond in an hour or so.
Thanks

water still does not shut off in a different cycle (PP)

Here is your tech sheet
https://www.servicematters.com/d...0Sheet%20-%203955499.pdf

Did this thing ever run correctly or did you buy it used and it has never worked?
Your description does indicate that the water inlet valve is OK.
Looking at the wiring diagram, it definitely shows that when the water level switch trips the water valve should disconnect.

You have replaced the water level switch and getting a replacement that has the same fault as the original is extremely low. I mean the switch does detect the level because agitation starts so the switch trips the Normally Open contacts (closes them) but still keeps the Normally Closed contacts closed, it would have to do this to give you the symptoms you have. Never seen this in 25 years.

Only explanation that makes sense is the unit is miswired or there is a short between two wires. The valve must be getting power from a line other than just the one coming from the level switch.

Of course this assumes that the wiring diagram is correct.