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This bearing appears to be quite high priced as compared to the std version. If it takes 2 of them

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  #161 (permalink)  
Old 09-22-2012, 09:48 AM
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This bearing appears to be quite high priced as compared to the std version. If it takes 2 of them it will be even more. Maybe it is worth it instead of scrapping the washer though.

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  #162 (permalink)  
Old 09-22-2012, 10:47 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thorning View Post
This bearing appears to be quite high priced as compared to the std version. If it takes 2 of them it will be even more. Maybe it is worth it instead of scrapping the washer though.

I would like to know just what Fenris did on his fix. My WAG is he used a standard 6702-2RS type for the upper Outer Tub bearing and the CSK207 for the Lower Outer Tub bearing. I hope he will chime in to describe the fix questions.

A 6702-2RS can be had for under $9 shipped to the house

The CSK207 is a bit more at $40 and I'm not sure what shipping charges at 1st class.

I have a series 17 and 16 machine in the family and $40 or $80 per machine for Outer Tub bearings would not be a show stopper for me. But every owner has to evaluate before pulling the DIY trigger.

Dick
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  #163 (permalink)  
Old 09-22-2012, 05:10 PM
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Dick, that's exactly what I did. I originally used two 6207s, but the lack of a one-way function caused extreme imbalance and shake. I took it apart again and replaced the lower bearing because it was easier. I also use a single M36 washer as a spacer in addition to the existing inner spacing tube. The washer works perfectly now and is much quieter.
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Old 10-06-2012, 08:55 PM
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Hey guys. I've been checking this thread for a while now. We got a used Neptune off of Craigslist a while back. It worked for a while and then started getting error codes.

I can't seem to add my post properly, so I'm uploading it as a TXT file. Thanks!
Attached Files
File Type: txt neptune problem.txt (2.0 KB, 17 views)

Last edited by Flavor : 10-06-2012 at 08:58 PM.
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  #165 (permalink)  
Old 10-07-2012, 07:15 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Flavor View Post
Hey guys. I've been checking this thread for a while now. We got a used Neptune off of Craigslist a while back. It worked for a while and then started getting error codes.

I can't seem to add my post properly, so I'm uploading it as a TXT file. Thanks!

Flavor I'll repost your text file in for others to easier view and read the history and I hope chime in..........Dick

""Hey guys. I've been checking this thread for a while now. We got a used Neptune off of Craigslist a while back. It worked for a while and then started getting error codes.

When I took it apart, the clutch bearings were completely seized up. There was nothing I could do to unlock them to get them to roll at all. On top of this, the spring coil thing was all folded up. I have no idea how the machine worked at all. I can only guess that it would spin and churn in both directions.

Anyway, I could not get the clutch to do anything useful, so I ended up buying a new one. It cost more than we paid for the washing machine, but I was certain that was the problem.

It fixed it. For a while.

I started getting error codes again, and the machine acted like it just couldn't balance even though it looked like it was doing the right thing. However, it was clicking and knocking while spinning. I took it apart, and the little pin on the end of the tension spring thingie had fallen off.

It was also HORRIBLY caked with muck (like black grease everywhere on the top of the clutch). I put the pin back in and re-installed the clutch. Now it works ALMOST.

The problem seems to be that the water doesn't drain before the spin cycle. The load is super heavy, and the struts are almost at the bottom. If I run a smaller load, I can balance it by hand. The problem doesn't seem to be the clothing as much as everything is just ultra wet and there's a lot of water in the basin.
I feel like it should pump out some of that water before spinning. How can I get it to pump that water out?

If I manually balance the load, sometimes (if it's a light load), it will get past this part and once it starts spinning faster, it will pump out the water. Once it gets past that point, all seems to go well.

Please help. I don't want to put more money into this. Heck, I hardly want to put more time into it. I just REALLY don't want to have to buy a new washer.

I'd appreciate any help I can get here, guys. Thanks!""
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  #166 (permalink)  
Old 10-07-2012, 07:22 AM
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This thread is to help DIY owners rebuild the Outer Tub that includes replacing the Tub Seal, Tranny O-ring, Outer Tub bearings, Spinner Support bearings. Assuming you have no issues on tear down such as I had of shearing off a few Spinner Support bolts in tear down, you end up fixing the root cause for the wash water leak that takes out the One-Way bearing in the Clutch Pulley and the Upper One-Way bearing ring if used in your production run of the series. I recommend with a Tub Seal/Tranny O-Ring replacement that the Outer Tub bearings and Spinner Support bearings be replaced but that’s an owner call.

If you just want to limp along and invest no more money in the machine by doing at least a Tub Seal/Tranny O-Ring replacement along with a corrosion/junk clean up then read thru this post Maytag Neptune load unbalance and see if you can put off trashing the machine for a bit.

That post will get you thru the Clutch Pulley One-Way bearing clean up relube and should stop the unbalance errors DC/UC if that Clutch Pulley One-Way bearing can be cleaned up and is operating as designed as I describe in that post.

“”The problem seems to be that the water doesn't drain before the spin cycle.“”

The machine is designed to start off in Spin Cycle with a fair amount of wash water in the wash basket/inner tub. If you think the drain pump/drain line is not performing as designed. I suggest placing enough water to fill up the wash basket to the horizontal split ring in the wash basket, get into Service Mode and turn on the drain pump. The wash basket should empty in about 25 to 30 seconds or less.

“”The problem doesn't seem to be the clothing as much as everything is just ultra wet and there's a lot of water in the basin.””

I believe the machine is not spinning up to 850 RPM you can check that wet load out by going into Service Mode with that wet load and run the Quick Spin Test in Service Mode and record the fastest spin rate.

If there is a lot of wash tub rumble in spin cycle the TDS sensor will signal the Control Board to clamp the spin rate at a slower spin rate and or you may fail the Quick Spin Test.

Just my thoughts as an owner…………Dick
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Old 10-07-2012, 02:20 PM
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Stupidly enough, I actually meant to post in that other thread. I think I had both open in my browser tabs, and I must have accidentally posted in this thread.

I'm sorry for that, but I really do appreciate the help anyway. You have some good suggestions here. I'll need to check into them. I will also post my info over on the other "Neptune load unbalance" thread.

Thanks!!!
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  #168 (permalink)  
Old 11-29-2012, 01:32 PM
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Dick where can i receive the best price on a clutch for a fav6800aww ser.17 Maytag neptune washer ? Ijust dismantled my washer to do a tub bearing replacement only to find out the clutch is beyond repair.Also if you have a part# Thanks Dave



e mail grahamdavidw@gmail.com
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  #169 (permalink)  
Old 02-05-2013, 02:46 PM
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Hi,

I am about the have the Tub seal replacement for my FAV6800AWW, I have a question: Does the sleeve come with the tub seal or I have to order them seperate? and where I I get this sleeve?

On ths SM page 49, it called for sleeve replacement when change the tub seal:

When installing a new seal, make sure the sleeve from the previous seal has been removed and discarded.

Thanks,

HB
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  #170 (permalink)  
Old 02-05-2013, 04:16 PM
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yes your help was great and now i have my ser #17 machine running real quite for a little over $100.00 Boca bearings. and just follow forum instructions .
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