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Transmission & Drum replacement

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I had a service tech out today whao said that the transmission and drum would need to be replaced on

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  #1 (permalink)  
Old 01-20-2011, 12:30 PM
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Default Transmission & Drum replacement
Model Number: FAV6800aww   Brand: Maytag   Age: 5 - 10 years   

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I had a service tech out today whao said that the transmission and drum would need to be replaced on my less than 6yo washing machine. Why would a drum need to be replaced because the transmission is broken?


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  #2 (permalink)  
Old 01-21-2011, 07:30 AM
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I’m and owner of three FAV6800A’s and do all my own work from Control Board troubleshooting to replacing the Outer Tub bearings Tub Seal and Spinner Support bearings.

I would need more information to answer your question. What was the reason for the service call i.e. error code generation to the LED display like DC or UC in Spin cycle? Any error codes to the LED display?

Do the tumblers rotate in wash agitate cycle? The Service Tech should have showed that to you with the washer top slightly raised from the washer base. Was the motor locked up with drive belt screach in wash cycle CW rotation of the Clutch Pulley?

Is the washer leaking water out of the bottom of the washer like a failed Tub Seal?

In Spin cycle was there metal to metal grinding/screeching sound like failed Outer Tub bearings?

Did you get a cost estimate for repair? My guess would be somewhere in the $600 to $800 range.

What are the 1st two digits of the Serial Number of your FAV6800A machine? That two digit range is 10 thru 17. That info is located on a tag on the left rear of the Console as you face the machine.

I just have basic wrenching skill sets I’m no expert. For me everything on this machine is cost effective to repair if you can DIY the repair and have access to used parts with some exceptions like Clutch Pulley One-Way needle bearings or Outer Tub/Spinner Support bearings.

If you can’t DIY your issue and tolerate some down time then it may be time to look for another machine if my repair cost question is in the ball park.

If you or someone you know wants to take on the repair I will help as best I can from the keyboard. The 1st step would be to properly troubleshoot to the fault location. I’m not convinced with the info supplied so far that the repair analysis provided that. You seem to agree which is a solid analysis on your part..………….Dick

Last edited by dh1200s : 01-21-2011 at 07:35 AM.
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  #3 (permalink)  
Old 01-21-2011, 11:31 AM
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The washing machine stopped mid-cycle and there was no code on the panel. The tumblers were locked up. The repair tech found about 6 pennies under the tumblers. He didn't quote a price because he said it would be to expensive to fix. There were no other issues with this machine when it stopped working.

Quote:
Originally Posted by dh1200s View Post
Im and owner of three FAV6800As and do all my own work from Control Board troubleshooting to replacing the Outer Tub bearings Tub Seal and Spinner Support bearings.

I would need more information to answer your question. What was the reason for the service call i.e. error code generation to the LED display like DC or UC in Spin cycle? Any error codes to the LED display?

Do the tumblers rotate in wash agitate cycle? The Service Tech should have showed that to you with the washer top slightly raised from the washer base. Was the motor locked up with drive belt screach in wash cycle CW rotation of the Clutch Pulley?

Is the washer leaking water out of the bottom of the washer like a failed Tub Seal?

In Spin cycle was there metal to metal grinding/screeching sound like failed Outer Tub bearings?

Did you get a cost estimate for repair? My guess would be somewhere in the $600 to $800 range.

What are the 1st two digits of the Serial Number of your FAV6800A machine? That two digit range is 10 thru 17. That info is located on a tag on the left rear of the Console as you face the machine.

I just have basic wrenching skill sets Im no expert. For me everything on this machine is cost effective to repair if you can DIY the repair and have access to used parts with some exceptions like Clutch Pulley One-Way needle bearings or Outer Tub/Spinner Support bearings.

If you cant DIY your issue and tolerate some down time then it may be time to look for another machine if my repair cost question is in the ball park.

If you or someone you know wants to take on the repair I will help as best I can from the keyboard. The 1st step would be to properly troubleshoot to the fault location. Im not convinced with the info supplied so far that the repair analysis provided that. You seem to agree which is a solid analysis on your part...Dick
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Old 01-21-2011, 12:11 PM
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OK. 6 pennies is no big deal. If the Service Tech tried to rotate the Clutch pulley CW the wash/agitate direction and the tumblers did not move then the tech is correct the drive system is Locked Up.

To do that test the Service Tech would have to remove the front cover panel of the washer. Did he remove the front panel and spin by hand the Clutch Pulley CW to verify the drive system was truly Locked Up?

If you can't DIY then yes any repair would be expensive. The machine is very easy to work on and repair with basic DIY skills. if you have any other question I can help with just post back.

Good Luck to you...........Dick
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