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My Whirlpool washer won't drain after wash cycle is complete, keeps agitating. I can hear the timer clicking so it's

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Old 01-13-2011, 05:01 PM
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Default washer won't drain
Model Number: LSR6333LQO   Brand: Whirlpool   Age: 5 - 10 years   

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My Whirlpool washer won't drain after wash cycle is complete, keeps agitating. I can hear the timer clicking so it's cycling.


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  #2 (permalink)  
Old 01-13-2011, 05:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by imdunwrkn View Post
My Whirlpool washer won't drain after wash cycle is complete, keeps agitating. I can hear the timer clicking so it's cycling.
Dunwrkn,

Does the motor run and the tub spin, in the spin/drain cycle ?

Is there a pause(30 to 60 seconds) in the operation betwen the end of the agitate and the beginning of the spin/drain cycle ?

Since it agitates, I don't think you have a bad motor,

But, a bad lid switch, or timer could cause the symptoms, you're describing.

An easy check for the lid switch operation, slowly raise the lid, you should be able to hear a desticnt click noise when the lid is open an inch or so and a desticnt click when you close the lid. a bad switch would/could keep the washer from draining and spinning.

From there, you could have a bad contact in the timer assembly, not making contact to reverse the motor for the unit to spin and drain.

You may want to run a short cycle, and observe the operation, so we can get a better idea of what and when the problem actually occurs.


Thanks,
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Old 01-13-2011, 06:39 PM
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Default Whirlpool washer doesn't drain

Joe, my washer will not drain so it doesn't spin. It goes through the wash cycle and when it didn't drain, I moved the dial a little past where it was and it just clicks. I tried putting a screw driver in the slot where the switch is and it is down and won't release. My neighbor, who works on "some" appliances, told me he feels like it's the switch.
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Old 01-14-2011, 07:06 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by imdunwrkn View Post
Joe, my washer will not drain so it doesn't spin. It goes through the wash cycle and when it didn't drain, I moved the dial a little past where it was and it just clicks. I tried putting a screw driver in the slot where the switch is and it is down and won't release. My neighbor, who works on "some" appliances, told me he feels like it's the switch.
Imdunwrkn,

Sure sounds like a bad lid switch, to me

Part number: AP3100003

Part number: AP3100003


Let's get that that changed out, and go from there.

Good Luck,
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Old 01-20-2011, 07:16 AM
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Hi all. I have the same exact problem but can't seem to get an answer to my thread! I'm thinking of jumping the switch to make sure that is the problem. Is there another way to check it other than jumping it? I have a whirlpool top load mod. LLV7233A. My husband is very handy and can undoubtedly fix this if we can narrow down the problem. Thanks Barb

My thread was posted yesterday 1/19 at 7:49 AM

Last edited by barb702 : 01-20-2011 at 07:18 AM.
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Old 01-20-2011, 03:13 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by barb702 View Post
Hi all. I have the same exact problem but can't seem to get an answer to my thread! I'm thinking of jumping the switch to make sure that is the problem. Is there another way to check it other than jumping it? I have a whirlpool top load mod. LLV7233A. My husband is very handy and can undoubtedly fix this if we can narrow down the problem. Thanks Barb

My thread was posted yesterday 1/19 at 7:49 AM

Barb,

Yes, you can jump out the switch at the back wall panel connector( I use a single strand 8 or 10 guage awg wire 3 0r 4 inches in length).

Unplug the power cord, access the lid switch connector harness(after you partially remove the cabinet), install the jumper in the connector, make a spin drain selection, plug in the power cord and pull out the dial knob.

You can also circuit check the switch, with a multi meter,

The access procedure is the same, except, when you disconnect the switch wire harness, insert the multi meter probes in the connector from the switch, open the lid, no circuit(0 resistance) close the lid, a complete circuit(infinite resistance), I always check several times,

Either way you go, you'll be able to determine a bad lid switch,

Just be carefull with the "jump" procedure, you're dealing with "live" 120 VAC, and could get hurt.

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Old 01-20-2011, 03:52 PM
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Joe, thanks for the answer! My husband went out and he found that the switch has either came loose or it has broke away from the mount and is real flimsy. Did manage to get a screw driver on it and pushed down and the spin took off and emptied the washer which had standing water in it for 3 days. But, there is no way the lid can make a connection with that switch.
Now I guess we have to find out the simplest way to get at the switch without taking the washer apart. Any ideas? Would be greatly appreciated!

Barb
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Old 01-21-2011, 07:21 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by barb702 View Post
Joe, thanks for the answer! My husband went out and he found that the switch has either came loose or it has broke away from the mount and is real flimsy. Did manage to get a screw driver on it and pushed down and the spin took off and emptied the washer which had standing water in it for 3 days. But, there is no way the lid can make a connection with that switch.
Now I guess we have to find out the simplest way to get at the switch without taking the washer apart. Any ideas? Would be greatly appreciated!

Barb

Barb,

There is no easy way to access the lid switch, but it is simple.

But here's the instructions,

Using a Phillips screwdriver, remove the screw from each side of the console.
Note: Depend on the model of the washer screws could be: 1) in the front of the console; 2) in the back of the console or 3) behind the end caps

2. Pull the console forward and up to remove the tabs on the bottom of the end caps, out of the holes in the top.

3. Lift the console up and lay it on its back.

4. Unplug the harness connector for the lid switch.

5. Insert a flat screwdriver into the front edge of the clip (located on both sides), and pry back. Remove both clips from the holes in the cabinet and slide down the other end of the clips and out the slot in the rear panel.

6. Open and hold the lid while grabbing the cabinet front opening. Be sure when tilting the cabinet that the back edge clears the vacuum break.

7. Tilt the top of the cabinet toward you by pulling on the lid and opening of the cabinet. This releases the back slots of the cabinet from the tabs in the back of the base

8. Carefully pull the cabinet away from the base of the washer and set it aside.
Now you have access to most of the parts. 
I'm pretty sure your husband can handle it,

And here's the part number you need,

Part number: AP3094500

Part number: AP3094500


Good Luck,
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Old 01-21-2011, 09:27 AM
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Joe, thank you for the help. I told you that my husband was handy, he fixed the problem. The reason the switch was loose and dangling was because the plastic prongs on it that hold it on the bracket had worn down and it fell off. My husband had no problem getting to it. There was nothing wrong with the switch except for that. He cut the 2 gray wires and spliced them together, taped them up and everything now works fine. He told me not to open the lid until the washer turns itself off. I never open it until then anyway! Iknow it's not the normal thing to do but he said that it is just a safety switch to stop the agitator when I open the door.

Thanks again Joe! barb
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Old 01-21-2011, 11:19 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by barb702 View Post
Joe, thank you for the help. I told you that my husband was handy, he fixed the problem. The reason the switch was loose and dangling was because the plastic prongs on it that hold it on the bracket had worn down and it fell off. My husband had no problem getting to it. There was nothing wrong with the switch except for that. He cut the 2 gray wires and spliced them together, taped them up and everything now works fine. He told me not to open the lid until the washer turns itself off. I never open it until then anyway! Iknow it's not the normal thing to do but he said that it is just a safety switch to stop the agitator when I open the door.

Thanks again Joe! barb

Barb,

"Honey" is correct, it is a safety device, and you could hurt yourself.
I'm not worried abot the agitation cycle, the spin cycle is more dangerous, That's why a lid switch, or lid lock is required to be in the machine.

Were it me, I'd order the switch as soon as possible, and "honey" can install it at his convenience,

But either way,

Thanks for the update,

Good Luck,

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