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GE Front Load Washer won't start - model WBVH6240FWW

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Original symptom - came home from out of town, my wife loaded the machine,pushed start and it would beep twice

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Old 11-30-2008, 01:03 PM
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Default GE Front Load Washer won't start - model WBVH6240FWW
Model Number: WBVH6240FWW   Brand: GE   Age: 1 - 5 years   

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Original symptom - came home from out of town, my wife loaded the machine,pushed start and it would beep twice but not start. It worked fine the last time we used it several days ago.

While trying to figure out the problem I tried to go into service mode with the signal-delay-signal-delay sequence. Machine would beep twice but displays no "T01" and the door didn't lock. Got out of service mode and when powered back up the display shows a decimal place in the cycle time. After further inspection, I found that the tip of the plunger for the door switch had broken off. I removed the door lock/switch assembly and fabricated a new tip. Put things back together, I can hear the switch now being actuated but I still have the decimal place in the cycle time display and the machine won't run. Pushing start simply causes the "decimaled" cycle time to count down at a 60:1 ratio (i.e. if a cycle would normally take 58 minutes to run the counter counts down in 58 seconds and then the end-of-cycle beeper goes off but the machine never does anything. I've left it unplugged for various periods of time to see if that would reset things but no luck so far.

Any suggestions would be much appreciated. I'm not sure if I am stuck in some sort of diagnostic mode that I simply don't know how to get out of or if there is some further problem beyond the broken (now repaired) door switch plunger. The coils for the door lock work properly when I directly energize them with 120 VAC. The filter for the pump is clear and the pump impeller is free to spin by hand (I have not pulled the pump).The machine worked fine prior to leaving for a few days and then didn't work when we got back so I was guessing that the tip of the plunger broke off when she shut the door last night but I'm not sure why fixing that didn't fix the overall problem


Thanks


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  #2 (permalink)  
Old 12-01-2008, 03:34 PM
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Try to reprogram the control board, following these instructions:

Enter the test mode and select "t01"
Rotate the cycle knob until the correct model number is displayed - "3" for model WBVH6240F
Press and hold the "Start" key for 3 seconds (or until a second beep is sounded)
Press the "Power" key to reset the control.

If it would not help then replace the control board. You have to program the new control board according to above instructions.

- The part number for the control board is AP3995160

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Last edited by Gene : 12-01-2008 at 03:36 PM.
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Old 12-01-2008, 04:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gene View Post
Try to reprogram the control board, following these instructions:

Enter the test mode and select "t01"
Rotate the cycle knob until the correct model number is displayed - "3" for model WBVH6240F
Press and hold the "Start" key for 3 seconds (or until a second beep is sounded)
Press the "Power" key to reset the control.

If it would not help then replace the control board. You have to program the new control board according to above instructions.

- The part number for the control board is AP3995160

Gene.
Thank you Gene. One problem I have, however, is that I don't seem to be able to enter the Test mode. When I push the prescribed "Loud-delay-loud-delay" button sequence I get two beeps but the display is blank. Am I doing something wrong or does that in and of itself mean that the control board is bad?
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Old 12-01-2008, 05:43 PM
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In order to enter the test mode you have:

Press the "power" button to clear any current cycles (the display must be blank to proceed)
Unplug the washer for 30 seconds
Plug it back and within 30 seconds of reconnecting power press signal-delay start-signal delay start
The door should lock then will display "t01".

Gene.
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Old 12-01-2008, 06:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gene View Post
In order to enter the test mode you have:

Press the "power" button to clear any current cycles (the display must be blank to proceed)
Unplug the washer for 30 seconds
Plug it back and within 30 seconds of reconnecting power press signal-delay start-signal delay start
The door should lock then will display "t01".

Gene.
Gene,

My apologies for using the wrong terminology, I wasn't in front of the machine when I last responded. I have done what you describe and the door does not lock and "T01" does not appear in the display. The display remains dark/off and I get 2 beeps but nothing else. Just for clarity I did the following steps.

- Machine plugged in, door closed - push power button to turn it off (display blank)
- Unplug machine for at least 30 sec
- Plug machine back in and within 30 seconds push signal-delay start-signal-delay start
- Hear two short beeps but no door lock and no "T01" (i.e. display remains blank/off)

Is there some other way to "clear" the control board?

I have cleaned the filter/drained the water from the tub. I also checked the water level/pressure switch and the contacts are in the appropriate position for an empty tub (service manual, page 33).

It seems to me that the decimal point in the display must mean something/come from somewhere but I sure don't understand it or how to clear it.....

Any other thoughts/suggestions will be most appreciated! Thanks.
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Old 12-01-2008, 07:39 PM
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Most likely the problem is a bad control board because the washer does not go into the test mode. The decimal point is not listed anywhere as a fault code. Actually it is not listed at all. The part number for the control board I posted earlier.

I'll try to invite abadfish66 to review this problem. He is the best GE expert on the forum.

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Old 12-01-2008, 07:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gene View Post
Most likely the problem is a bad control board because the washer does not go into the test mode. The decimal point is not listed anywhere as a fault code. Actually it is not listed at all. The part number for the control board I posted earlier.

I'll try to invite abadfish66 to review this problem. He is the best GE expert on the forum.

Gene.
Thanks! Please let me know if I can provide any further information or perform any other tests that would provide useful information.
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Old 12-01-2008, 10:14 PM
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After poking around a bit more - some additional information and questions:

I ran across what appears to be a discrepancy in the information about the water level control. I don't know whether it is related to the problem I'm having or not but it confuses me so I thought I would ask. I am assuming that you have access to the service manual but if not I can provide the relevant pages.

- The third paragraph at the beginning of the "Service Test Mode" section of the service manual (page 51) says (emphasis added) "The water level switch must reset BEFORE the test mode can be entered. If water remains in the washer, manually drain the washer to reset the water level switch. A failed water level switch can cause an inability to enter the test mode." I drained the machine via removing the pump filter.

- Page 33 of the service manual shows a table indicating the switch positions of the 3 physical switches inside the water level switch under various conditions. It indicates that when the machine is empty the "Foam" switch will be closed and the "Main" and "Overflow" switches will be open. The illustration immediately below the table shows the wiring for the three switches to the connector and seems to depict the "Empty" position based on the table. Based on this information and checking with an ohm meter my water level switch is in the empty position.

- Page 58 of the service manual (as well as the Service Tech sheet that is normally inside the cover of the machine) show a schematic of the control board. The water level switch drawing in these diagrams indicates that all three internal switches (Foam, Main, and Overflow) are all normally open switches - this seems to contradict the diagram/table on page 33.

All of this leaves me unsure if my water level switch is failed or not and whether it could be preventing me from getting into the test mode as described above. Do you know which switch positions are correct and/or which ones correspond to the water level switch being "reset" as is required before going into Test mode? I don't suppose you have any water level switches laying on a shelf that could be checked with an ohm meter do you?


Separate from the above, I measured the voltages at pins P8.2, P8.3, and P8.4 on the control board (see the schematic on page 58 once again). P8.3 and P8.4 are the door unlock and lock coils respectively and P8.2 is the common between them. When the machine is plugged in, all of these pins show 120VAC to ground. That struck me as a bit odd as you might think that they would be at 0 and then when you wanted to lock or unlock the door you would send 120 to either P8.3 or P8.4 depending on the desired action. Do you have any insights/thoughts relative to this (or is it even important?).

Thanks again. I guess the bright side of all this is that I now know the machine better and learned how to manually release the door if the machine ever fails in a locked mode.....
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Old 12-02-2008, 07:33 AM
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It sounds like the door lock mechanism is not working properly. I'll do a little research and see what I come up with.
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Old 12-02-2008, 08:07 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by abadfish66 View Post
It sounds like the door lock mechanism is not working properly. I'll do a little research and see what I come up with.

Thanks. The lock/unlock solenoids works properly if you directly apply 120 VAC but it is definitely not getting that from the control board. I'll look forward to hearing if you find anything further.
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