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Dear Kayakcrazy,
Sorry to but in, but my washer is also Kenmore Elite (bought new in 2002), top load, heavy duty, 3 speed power w/ 6 speed combination.
However, once it's done it's first washing cycle it stops when it kicks on to the first rinse cycle and won't spin, nor would the water drains. Somebody told me, it must be the transmission is bust, and I read somewhere in this thread which has a similar problem, its something to do with a switch in the flap cover, etc.
Please give me your advise. Also, is this kind of problem and 6 years of usage, worth repairing with new parts or just buy a new one? Any idea how much is the repair and parts cost?
Thank you.
Roger
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Rank: Advanced Member
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Joined: 10/9/2008(UTC)
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Originally Posted by: roger aninag  Dear Kayakcrazy,
Sorry to but in, but my washer is also Kenmore Elite (bought new in 2002), top load, heavy duty, 3 speed power w/ 6 speed combination.
However, once it's done it's first washing cycle it stops when it kicks on to the first rinse cycle and won't spin, nor would the water drains. Somebody told me, it must be the transmission is bust, and I read somewhere in this thread which has a similar problem, its something to do with a switch in the flap cover, etc.
Please give me your advise. Also, is this kind of problem and 6 years of usage, worth repairing with new parts or just buy a new one? Any idea how much is the repair and parts cost?
Thank you.
Roger Is your machine an Oasis? Because the subject here may be different I got you covered in another thread but need the model
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Rank: Advanced Member
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Joined: 2/1/2008(UTC)
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V2k04, Happy Thanksgiving!!! I hope you have the 4 days off. I am glad it is over. I finished yesterday with 13 service calls and 273 miles. I don't want to see another oven for awhile. Tom ApplianceEducator.com
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Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: Senior Expert
Joined: 10/9/2008(UTC)
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lol ya I found out I had 4 days off yesterday, and I am not even on call ha ha sounds like you had a good day for service that reminds me of the way A & E would work my tail off You have a good holiday as well....but look at us we are fixing shit here lol lol
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Rank: Advanced Member
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Joined: 2/1/2008(UTC)
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You know what is like when you have your own business. You take it, when you have it. I worked my butt off, and made $3500 in three days. My wife sure is happy. I know we are fools, because, helping is in our blood, and there are to many servicemen out there, who don't knoe a damn thing. Tom ApplianceEducator.com
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Rank: Member
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Joined: 11/22/2008(UTC)
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I finally got the ordered part Thursday evening and plugged it in. It went beep, lit up and then went black and has been black ever since. I have just now calmed down enough to compose a thoughtful question. All I know is I'll never buy anything else from Sears if they don't step up and cover all these costs, and I really don't want to have to call them for help.
I have voltage coming out of the blue bundle of wires that connects the user control board to the ccu. I put my volt meter on the ground contact and the volt in and got something like 24 volts, so power goes in, but I can't figure out which contact to check to see if power comes back out or if the on/off switch is opening and closing.
Can you give me a hand?
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Rank: Advanced Member
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Perhaps the following will help https://www.servicematters.com/d...0Sheet%20-%208567037.pdf https://www.servicematters.com/d...0Sheet%20-%208577781.pdfAm not sure which one is applicable to your unit. By the look of it you will will not be able to tell if the ON/OFF is working. Looks like they are using an active USER INTERFACE. The switches operate an integrated circuit which sets a code which is then read by the CONTROL BOARD. through the DATA Out line. Same type of thing as reading an RSS232 or USB port on a computer. You can check that the USER INTERFACE is getting power. by measuring the DC voltage inputs VSS to the +15 and +5 volt pins. The + 15 probably runs the display and the +5 probably runs the integrated circuits/transistors. I would plug in only the following P13 power in P11 user interface And see what happens could be an external device is loading down the power supply. Note: Am not sure if the display is live when the lid switch is open so you may have to jumper pins 5 to 1 on P12 to get the display |
THIS FORUM IS DEAD!!!!!!! |
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Rank: Member
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Joined: 11/22/2008(UTC)
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Thank you. I'll try these tests and see what happens. What you sent me is a different tech sheet then the one I had before. I sure hope it's neither the ccu or the interface because they ar eboth brand new.
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Rank: Member
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Kenmore Elite model 100.27082602I performed all manual and automatic diagnostic tests in the tech manual 8567037 REV. A and everything worked. The code that came up at the beginning was the infamous F51. All connections appear correct and check out on the ohm meter. Does this mean that the user interface I just received is bad and I need to send it back? If so would you please steer me to the correct location to find out how to get it back ASAP so I can get this going again. Thanks again
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Rank: Member
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Joined: 11/22/2008(UTC)
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Dear denman or kayakcrazy,
I just found out how to return the part. Is there anyway to check it, other than what I just did, to make sure it is the problem before I do?
Larry
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