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While replacing the drive belt on a Model HAV2460AWW, a spring item #1 in the parts diagram (p/n AP4027842 ).

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Old 12-09-2010, 05:16 PM
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Default Maytag Washer Repair
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While replacing the drive belt on a Model HAV2460AWW, a spring item #1 in the parts diagram (p/n AP4027842 ). I am not sure where or how this spring attaches. What is it's purpose?

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Old 12-10-2010, 10:05 AM
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Originally Posted by indianjoe View Post
While replacing the drive belt on a Model HAV2460AWW, a spring item #1 in the parts diagram (p/n AP4027842 ). I am not sure where or how this spring attaches. What is it's purpose?

Joe,

That part is your motor tension spring,

Part number: AP4027842

Part number: AP4027842


It is mounted on the front of the motor and motor mounting plate, and keeps tension on the motor and belt, for proper operation.

You'll need to find the "hole" in the front of the motor mounting plate and the corresponding hole in the motor assembly.
(front of motor is on the inside, closest to the gearcase/transmission).

The longer cantileverrred end of the spring, needs to be inserted into the hole on the mounting plate, and manipulated into position(the circle should be at the top)

Then the motor end of the spring will be inserted into the hole on the motor, inside / betwen the two stubs, the tension will hold it in place.

Good Luck,
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Old 12-10-2010, 03:37 PM
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Default motor tension spring

Many thanks Joe. I shall donate to the cause.

Just looked the motor and mounting plate and I see what you describe.

Now I'm wondering if I tensioned the belt correctly.
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Old 12-13-2010, 06:17 AM
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Many thanks Joe. I shall donate to the cause.

Just looked the motor and mounting plate and I see what you describe.

Now I'm wondering if I tensioned the belt correctly.

Bill,

You did order and install the proper drive belt

Part number: AP4024823

Part number: AP4024823


Actually, there is no belt tension rating or adjustment.

The motor tension spring, is your "self adjusting" tension device,unless there is something else wrong, burnt pulley, stripped pullet, etc.

You'll also want to check and make sure the motor plate, is clean and debris free, in the back area(under the slide foot on the motor).

Good Luck,
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Old 12-13-2010, 07:52 AM
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Default Indian Joe A&P tech not washer tech

Thanks for the reply Joe.
Well at this point it appears that I have incorrectly diagnosed the washer problem which was " started washer cycle after filling adding clothes etc. Agitation delayed by a buzzing and slipping as in burning smell", I thought was belt but could have been motor. Ordered belt from Maytag very slow shipping btw. Compared belt #s, check.
Installed belt from bottom by loosening the two nuts on bottom and slid motor over. After installing new belt, nuts which go on studs built into motor would not tighten completely (stripped nuts) Ran die over studs and replaced nuts. Put machine back together, filled with water, (my mistake), and had same buzzing sound and smell. No agitation.
If motor is seized replacement replacement is $135 and change, New washer upwards of $400.
Any ideas or suggestions?
Again thanks much for the help.
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Old 12-13-2010, 08:54 AM
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Originally Posted by Billy Bob View Post
Thanks for the reply Joe.
Well at this point it appears that I have incorrectly diagnosed the washer problem which was " started washer cycle after filling adding clothes etc. Agitation delayed by a buzzing and slipping as in burning smell", I thought was belt but could have been motor. Ordered belt from Maytag very slow shipping btw. Compared belt #s, check.
Installed belt from bottom by loosening the two nuts on bottom and slid motor over. After installing new belt, nuts which go on studs built into motor would not tighten completely (stripped nuts) Ran die over studs and replaced nuts. Put machine back together, filled with water, (my mistake), and had same buzzing sound and smell. No agitation.
If motor is seized replacement replacement is $135 and change, New washer upwards of $400.
Any ideas or suggestions?
Again thanks much for the help.

Bill,

A quick check,

Will the washer spin/drain ?

If it does, your problem would most likely be the timer.

If it doesn't, it's a 50/50 split between the timer and the motor.

Do you have a multi meter to check circuits and voltages ?

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Old 12-13-2010, 12:48 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Joe / APP Team View Post
Bill,

A quick check,

Will the washer spin/drain ?

If it does, your problem would most likely be the timer.

If it doesn't, it's a 50/50 split between the timer and the motor.

Do you have a multi meter to check circuits and voltages ?

Right now with the tub full of water it just hums and you can see the tub trying to agitate but can't quite do it.

Yes I do have a multimeter, but I have no idea of values to look for or where.
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Old 12-13-2010, 02:45 PM
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Right now with the tub full of water it just hums and you can see the tub trying to agitate but can't quite do it.

Yes I do have a multimeter, but I have no idea of values to look for or where.
Bill,

Not to worry, I'll get you the information as soon as I get a diagram and resistance readings,

The meter is going to be a great help, and should help save some money.

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Old 12-14-2010, 08:05 AM
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Bill,

Not to worry, I'll get you the information as soon as I get a diagram and resistance readings,

The meter is going to be a great help, and should help save some money.


Bill,

Let's start at the timer, it might be easier for you.

First, unplug the power cord,

To access the timer/control panel, remove the 3 screws across the top of the back panel and lean the control panel forward.
(hopefully, you'll find the wiring diagram, if it hasn't been removed)

You'll basically do two tests,

Set the timer dial in the "regular" wash cycle and pull out the knob.

At the timer terminal blocks, you'll insert your meter probes into the wire insertion side of the block, (make sure your probes are inside and making contact on the metal part of the terminal).

You are going to check for a closed circuits on the following terminal contacts:

26 to 28
15 to 66
32 to 9
7 to 8 and
66 to 32



Set the timer dial to the final spin/drain cycle and pull out the knob.

You're going to check for closed circuits on the following terminal contacts:

27 to 15
15 to 66
32 to 7
9 to 8 and
66 to 32

If any of these checks show an open or partial circuit , you need a timer.

If all of these checks show a closed circuit, you need to check the harness to the motor, if the harness is OK, you'll need a motor.

Drop us a line, and let us know what you find.

Good Luck,

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Old 12-14-2010, 10:19 AM
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Thanks Joe. I'll let you know the results.


Let's start at the timer, it might be easier for you.

First, unplug the power cord,

To access the timer/control panel, remove the 3 screws across the top of the back panel and lean the control panel forward.
(hopefully, you'll find the wiring diagram, if it hasn't been removed)

You'll basically do two tests,

Set the timer dial in the "regular" wash cycle and pull out the knob.

At the timer terminal blocks, you'll insert your meter probes into the wire insertion side of the block, (make sure your probes are inside and making contact on the metal part of the terminal).

You are going to check for a closed circuits on the following terminal contacts:

26 to 28
15 to 66
32 to 9
7 to 8 and
66 to 32



Set the timer dial to the final spin/drain cycle and pull out the knob.

You're going to check for closed circuits on the following terminal contacts:

27 to 15
15 to 66
32 to 7
9 to 8 and
66 to 32

If any of these checks show an open or partial circuit , you need a timer.

If all of these checks show a closed circuit, you need to check the harness to the motor, if the harness is OK, you'll need a motor.

Drop us a line, and let us know what you find.

Good Luck,

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