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Model Number: MHWZ600TW01 Brand: Maytag Age: 1 - 5 years
I have a Maytag Epic Z that will turn on and allow me to select the desired cycle, then when I press the start button, it completely shuts off. I'm being told it could be the front panel (electrical) or interface board. Can anyone help me narrow it down any more??
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At this point, I don't believe you have a bad user interface. I'd suspect, the door switch or the central control board(CCU). If you remove the top panel of the washer(3 screws across the back and slide it back an inch). You should find the technical data sheet attached to the top, or rolled up and inserted near the CCU. You can run all the diagnostics and component tests, and fail codes. We'll have a better idea of what's going on.
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I have looked all over for the data sheet and can't find it. I have purchased the front panel and control boards:
1 of AP4357186 (W10117419) - CNTRL-ELEC 1 of AP4452490 (W10205977) - CNTRL-ELEC Installed both with no luck. Can you send me the data sheet or do you have any further suggestions? |
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I'm beginning to wander if you have a wiring problem(loose wire or connection), I hope not... Here is the Tech Data Sheet, Let me know it you recieve and can download or view it, Tech Sheet - W10207733 epic z washer.pdf
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T, Don't bother trying to open the attachment, It's password protected, and you'll get a pop up screen. I'll try and send it again, unprotacted this time.
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I didn't have a problem opening the attachment. I'm trying to troubleshoot now, but still no luck |
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T, I'm glad (and surprised) you got the attachment. (I sent it to another person, as a test and they were not able to open it ???) How far were you able to get, if anywhere, in the test mode ? Try these two things, A) Check your cabinet ground switch(es) and wires for circuits and loose connections. B) Check the door switch circuit, Connector DS2 across pins #1 and 2( unplug connector and check on connector pins) make sure the circuit opens and closes with the door(do this several times) C) Check the door lock/unlock circuits, Connector DL3 across pins #1 and #2 you should read 120 VAC, when you program a cycle and press start. C a)Check connector DL3, across pins #2 and #3, you should read 120 VAC, when the door should unlock . If you haven't yet, Remove power and the washer top panel. Listen closely to the CCU, and plug the unit power cord into the outlet, you should hear a distinct "click", when the K1 relay closes on the CCU. I figure, now that you've got the diagram, we're alot better off, you'll have a better idea of what we're doing and looking for.
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I think I found the problem. I was able to get the diagnostic mode to display the last error code....it was F24, which is a problem with the water temperature sensor. I found a broken wire on the water temperature sensor connection. I was able to repair the connection and the problem went away. However, while testing several things, I broke the door switch and just ordered another one. I hoping this will resolve all my problems and will respond back as soon as I get my part. |
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To Joe and TSPiers
just want to say thank you for your comments on this subject. I have the exact same model as TS with the exact same problem and thanks to being able to download the tech sheets and your finding the broken wire at the water temp sensor I quickl located my problem which was the exact same broken wire....easy fix..thanks a million or probably at least a couple hundred by not having to calll in a repair guy...FYI found my tech sheets taped to the inside of the lower front cover...thanks again guys..good job!! |
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TS and Jon, Great job, both of you, I checked my old "tech notes", and was going to send TS an update, to check the heater, sensor circuit, next. The heater harness was not a common occurence, but it did occur ocassionally. TS, sorry about the door switch assembly, once that's in , you'll be OK. Again, Great job, Happy Holidays,
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