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Well the wife says the washer has died! The tub fills with water like normal but then the machine just hums and the agiator is not moving. I drained the machine and removed the clothes, then tilted the maching back and was able to rotate the agiator, motor & drain pump by hand. I went ahead and removed both belts and tried again. Once again it fills with water but then just starts this loud hum and the motor is not turning. On one attempt I swear I saw a spark from the motor start switch. So I took it apart and the contacts were quite burnt so I filed them nice and flat again but no change. Can you help me figure out what parts need replaced?
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Originally Posted by: afnashcom  Well the wife says the washer has died! The tub fills with water like normal but then the machine just hums and the agiator is not moving. I drained the machine and removed the clothes, then tilted the maching back and was able to rotate the agiator, motor & drain pump by hand. I went ahead and removed both belts and tried again. Once again it fills with water but then just starts this loud hum and the motor is not turning. On one attempt I swear I saw a spark from the motor start switch. So I took it apart and the contacts were quite burnt so I filed them nice and flat again but no change. Can you help me figure out what parts need replaced? It sounds like everything is mechanically OK. Were you able the drain the washer,using the spin cycle ? If you were, and the motor ran, then I would have to suspect the timer. Part number: AP4028325
Do you have access to a multi meter ? You could check your motor winding resistances to varify a bad winding, Your motor start winding(across the brown and red terminals on the motor with wires off should read 4 ohms resistance) Your motor run windings(across white and black terminals on the motor with the wires off should read 2 ohms resistance). (allow 10% variance). If the readings are too far out of the range, you'll need a motor Part number: AP4009168
Good Luck :) :) :)
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Rank: Member
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Were you able the drain the washer,using the spin cycle ?
I did rotate the dial but no I couldn't get anything to happen and I did not feel comportable leaving it on to long as the lights in the room were both flickering and dimming quite a bit each time I turned it on. Didn't want to do any damage to other items.
Yes I do have a meter and I will do the tests as you lined out this evening after I get home from work. I will let you know my test results.
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Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: Moderators
Joined: 7/14/2010(UTC)
Posts: 5,222
Was thanked: 1 time(s) in 1 post(s)
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Originally Posted by: afnashcom Were you able the drain the washer,using the spin cycle ?
I did rotate the dial but no I couldn't get anything to happen and I did not feel comportable leaving it on to long as the lights in the room were both flickering and dimming quite a bit each time I turned it on. Didn't want to do any damage to other items.
Yes I do have a meter and I will do the tests as you lined out this evening after I get home from work. I will let you know my test results. I wish you had mentioned the dimming lights in your first post. You may have a voltage supply problem. When you get home, Set your meter up to read 200 VAC. Put the meter probes in the empty outlet, of the outlet the washer is plugged into, and check the voltage reading(this will give you your "line" voltage(should be between 110 VAC to 120 VAC). Leave the meter probes installed in the outlet slots, turn the timer dial to the spin cycle, When you pull out the knob, and the motor is humming, you need to check the voltage draw on your meter : Voltage should drop 2 to5 VAC below the line VAC. (normal) If voltage drops to 108 VAC, the motor may or may not run (not enough voltage to push through the motor windings). If voltage drops to 105 VAC or less the motor won't run,at all. If this is what you find(low voltage under a draw) you'll need to find out what's wrong with the outlet and wiring ( electrician ). If all checks are OK, then check the motor windings resistance per my previous post. Good Luck, :) :) :)
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Rank: Member
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:) Thank you for your assistance with my washer problem. The line voltages were with in the specs you provide 124/119volts. The ohms test you provided show the motor to be the problem. The cost for the motor, belts, bleach dispenser, front cover clips to put this 12yr old machine back into good working order was just at $200.00. Home Depot had a Maytag with the same features with a bigger tub on sale for $249.00 out the door with free delivery and removal of your old machine, soooo it only made since to go the new machine route this time.
Thank you again for your assistance with this and I hope this post helps someone else fix their machine.
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Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: Moderators
Joined: 7/14/2010(UTC)
Posts: 5,222
Was thanked: 1 time(s) in 1 post(s)
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Originally Posted by: afnashcom :) Thank you for your assistance with my washer problem. The line voltages were with in the specs you provide 124/119volts. The ohms test you provided show the motor to be the problem. The cost for the motor, belts, bleach dispenser, front cover clips to put this 12yr old machine back into good working order was just at $200.00. Home Depot had a Maytag with the same features with a bigger tub on sale for $249.00 out the door with free delivery and removal of your old machine, soooo it only made since to go the new machine route this time.
Thank you again for your assistance with this and I hope this post helps someone else fix their machine. Good Luck with the new machine. You're welcome, glad to have helped. :) :) :)
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