[jeweltag]

Rcvd. washer & dryer 30 yrs ago as wedding gift. Having problems with washer model LA308. Only repairs previously made were belt(s) & pump replacement. Tub will fill, but go to clockwise spin, stop and spin counterclockwise, stop, fill and final spin clockwise. Problems include no agitation at all during entire wash, motor not moving automatically on carriage (however, can move manually by hand rather easily), and clothes still sopping wet after final spin as if not spinning fast enough. Both belts are turning pulleys, but appear a "little" loose. Will replace both, but I don't think that is the problem. Please help.

[Joe / APP Team]

Originally Posted by jeweltag

Rcvd. washer & dryer 30 yrs ago as wedding gift. Having problems with washer model LA308. Only repairs previously made were belt(s) & pump replacement. Tub will fill, but go to clockwise spin, stop and spin counterclockwise, stop, fill and final spin clockwise. Problems include no agitation at all during entire wash, motor not moving automatically on carriage (however, can move manually by hand rather easily), and clothes still sopping wet after final spin as if not spinning fast enough. Both belts are turning pulleys, but appear a "little" loose. Will replace both, but I don't think that is the problem. Please help.

Jewelltag,

Sounds more like the "brake/clutch" assembly has failed or backed out of the tub support assembly.

Part number: AP4373089

You'll need to access the bottom of the machine(raise the front ot lay it on it's back).

Remove the belts.

Turn the transmission pulley counter clockwise (agitation) and see if you hear a clunking noise or if it gets stuck.
(you may want to have someone observe the agitator, and makes sure it moves back and forth).

Turn the pulley clockwise, and in 1/2 to 3/4 of a revolution the brake should lock, and you should be able to see the transmission assembly rotate as you turn the pulley.

Remove the Black rubber cap in the center of the transmission pulley,remove the phillips head screw and washer, pry off the drive lug and remove the pulley(turn counterclockwise).

Inspect the brake assembly, there should be approximately 3 or 4 threads visible (3/8 inch) where the brake is screwed into the support assembly.

The retainer clip and bolt need to be as tight as possible.

Let us know what you find, and we can get you going from there.

[jeweltag]

Joe: Thanks for your reply. Here is what I did as suggested:
1) Removed belts
2) Turned pulley counter-clockwise & it turned freely- no thunking sound or binding up
3) Turned clockwise & same result- turned freely with no thunking or binding- it did NOT stop during first full revolution or anytime during several turns- I assume brake is not locking?
4) Took rubber cap off & removed screw, washer, lug stop and pulley. Set of ball bearings came off also, but look fine & intact. Turned transmission and it did not stop either, although it was much harder to turn due to removal of pulley and ball bearings.
5) 3 or 4 threads (maybe 3/16"-1/4" wide for each "thread"?) are visible, and brake assembly appears to be secure- however, I wasn't sure where to find the bolt & retainer clip you mentioned to see if tight. Also, I am having trouble screwing pulley back on. Does the "cup" side of ball bearings face up or down?

Whatup?? Brake?? I hope not, but if this is the case I don't want to have to shell out $$ for special brake removal tool that costs more than the $50-$60 part.

[jeweltag]

Incidently, I forgot to mention that when I turned pulley in either direction, after removing belts, the agitator turned with it. Between cycles, I thought I heard a light and brief humming noise like something was not engaging electronically.

[richappy]

I have removed the brake housing before by simply removing the brake housing screws, keeping the housing cover even with the housing. Screws where long enough to release the brake spring tension, thus allowing removal without the brake release tool. If the screws are too short, just replace with longer ones, I think 8-32 machine screws.

[jeweltag]

richappy: thanks for the info., however, does the brake appear to be my problem in the first place, based upon what I described?? Or is it an electronical (control panel) problem?

[richappy]

If you have a bad spring or bearing in the housing, I believe, the clutch inside the tranny will not engage.
Go to web site www.applianceaid.com for info on this dependable car washer. You might find you just need to adjust the drive lug.
If you move the pulley in the spin direction, the helix inside will move up and release the brake and engage the clutch. The tranny will turn and it will be easy to turn by hand. Adjust the drive lug till this happens.
Please inform us on the results.

[jeweltag]

ric: I am now totally confused. Went to applianceaid site, but it is not helping much. I tried adjusting the drive lug on the shaft, and regardless of the position, when I turn pulley clockwise (looking up from bottom= agitating cycle), the transmission is not moving, and pulley turning freely. This occurs even when drive lug is touching either side of lug on pulley. Help please!

[richappy]

All indications point to a bad tranny, sorry: This assumes you have everything back together properly. Might want to re-post for some of the tranny experts here.

[Joe / APP Team]

Originally Posted by richappy

All indications point to a bad tranny, sorry: This assumes you have everything back together properly. Might want to re-post for some of the tranny experts here.

Is there any clunking or squealing noise when the unit runs ?

Rich, is correct in his explanation,

When the transmission pulley is turned counter clockwise (the agitation) you should be able to see the agitator move back and forth.

When the transmission pulley is turned clockwise, the helix drives the pulley up and disengages the brake rotor, at the same time, the shaft is pulled down, and engages the clutch washer in the bottom of the gear assembly, everything locks up and the transmission and the tubs spin.

When you turn the pulley clockwise, the bake and clutch should engage and the assembly should start to spin within 3/4 to 1 revolution, if everything is correctly working.

If you have a loose or warn brake assembly or if the transmission shaft has started to pull out of the pinion gear, you will get the symptoms you described.