Originally Posted by: Sledjunky 
Yes, I have a multi-meter. I have found out a couple of things. We were using the wrong detergent. Also the past owner had something go through the pump. The impeller is fine but the housing is a little chewed up. Is that a problem?
Sled,
Replacing the pump, may be a good idea, if just to keep from doing it later.
Now,
Excessive suds, can keep that pump from draining proper, and cause that spin tub to rotate slower than the tachometer circuit expects to see and will give you an error code.
You may want to clear the detergent build up in the tubs, or neutralize the sudsing with Non Dairy Coffee Creamer (3 or 4 tablespoons in the tub or dispenser with a hot wash works rather well).
To test the motor winding resistance and motor tach circuit :
Remove the top of the washer to access the main control board.
Tach Circuit:
Disconnect CN8 conector from board,
On the pins in the connector:
Orange to any other pin should read infite ohms resistance(closed circuit)
Blue to Pink pins should read 4.7 ohms resistance.
Red to Pink pins should read 4.7 ohms resistance.
Red to Blue pins should read 9.6 ohms resistance.
(allow a 10% +/- varience on all resistance checks).
Motor Winding circuit:
Disconnect CN9 connector.
Blue to White should read 11.5 ohms resistance.
Blue to Red should read 11.5 ohms resistance.
White to Red should read 11.5 ohms resistance.
**( as long as the resistance is the same on all motor windings, your
motor is OK, on average 3 ohms is the most common reading) **
Here's the Tech Data sheet for you to refer to :
http://servicematters.co...ibrary/docs/16026736.pdfIf you're comfortable with clearing the suds and detergent from the tub ,
After you test these circuits and they test proper.
You will need the main control board.
Part number: AP4044615
Good Luck,
:) :) :)
