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BrianWorf  
#1 Posted : Saturday, June 19, 2010 12:25:30 PM(UTC)
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BrianWorf

Rank: Member

Groups: Registered
Joined: 6/19/2010(UTC)
Posts: 2

Hello, I have a Whirlpool washer, Model LA8200XWW0 that I have had for about 20 years. It has been an excellent machine. In the past I have replaced the water fill solenoid, and the lid safety switch.
Last weekend, the washer stopped spinning, and agitating, but would pump fine. I discovered the coupler was obliterated, with the rubber ring actually laying beneath the washer and the 3 plastic prongs on each of the 2 disks ground down to nothing! I replaced the coupler assembly and the washer seemed to run OK, but had a slight burning rubber smell to it.
I washed a few more loads in it, and it stopped spinning/agitaing again. I found the coupler still intact. I removed the motor, pump, agitator, and transmission, checking all parts for a worn/broken part and see nothing obvious. I dis-assembled the gear-box and it is all good inside. I replaced the gear oil, as well.
I re-assembled everything, BUT didn't attach the agitator to the spindle shaft and tested it. The pump will pump all water out, the tub will spin, and it will agitate (well, the spindle spins) BUT when I attach the agitator back to the spindle shaft (therefore engaging the tub to spin) it locks up everything and will neither spin, pump or agitate. The motor is in a bind and overloading as well (I stopped it very fast to not burn out windings) I am fairly sure it has something to do with the clutch assembly and/or the brake shoes mentioned here. Am I correct in thinking that is the problem? Also, I cannot seem to find a diagram, picture or instructions on how the clutch and brake pads are supposed to be assembled and what they look like if OK.
Thanks in advance for any help. Sorry if this post is very long, but wanted to be inclusive of all relevant info.
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sidfink43  
#2 Posted : Monday, June 21, 2010 9:01:00 AM(UTC)
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sidfink43

Rank: Advanced Member

Groups: Senior Expert
Joined: 3/29/2009(UTC)
Posts: 11,699

Well, first of all congratulations on not only having a machine perform for 20 years but also for doing all that maintenance.

Yours is a somewhat knotty problem. I would go ahead and pull out the spin tube and check things, see Richappy's sticky on direct drive brake shoes. It sounds like somewhere in there is your problem, but also check to make sure your new coupling is not binding up when you go into it.
BrianWorf  
#3 Posted : Tuesday, June 22, 2010 5:28:46 PM(UTC)
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BrianWorf

Rank: Member

Groups: Registered
Joined: 6/19/2010(UTC)
Posts: 2

Well, I did finally find the exploded diagram. The last letter was the letter O and not the number 0. Makes a big differnce!! After using the diagram and instructions for pulling the brake shoes, I tore apart the clutch assembly, brake shoes and spin tube. It appeared that both the brake shoes were worn out and the clutch assembly was worn out. During testing, I decided to go ahead and meter the motor's current to make sure it hadn't partially fried, as well. It had. Was drawing 11 amps in one direction, but ok in the other. Then it actually threw some sparks!! After adding up the price of a new motor, clutch assembly, and brake shoes; I decided that it was time to replace it with a new (NON HE, toploader). I got a Maytag and so far, we really like it. Very similar design, no extra bells and whistles, and a nice, bigger basket (which my king size comforter will now fit in!!) Anyhow, thanks for the help. Definately will keep this site in Fav's, as I NEVER throw anything away until I absolutely have used every bit of it!!
sidfink43  
#4 Posted : Tuesday, June 22, 2010 6:07:28 PM(UTC)
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sidfink43

Rank: Advanced Member

Groups: Senior Expert
Joined: 3/29/2009(UTC)
Posts: 11,699

Well great, well not great that you had to spend the money but great that you diagnosed the problem, great that you decided not to repair it because that would not have been cost effective and really great that you made the right selection on a new machine.

Good luck with it, hope it lasts forever.
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