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My Whirlpool icemaker quit working recently. The water valves works fine. Resistance checks on the motor, mold heater and thermostat appeared to give good readings. The LED is ON SOLID when the emitter flapper door is pressed to unblock the beam. Installing a jumper between the “T” and “H” test points failed to initiate a harvest with I/M installed in the freezer but works when powered directly from a 110-volt house outlet. Voltage test of the BLACK & WHITE and BLACK & TAN wires in the freezer wall receptacle only gave 60-volts NOT 110-volts. Does this mean that the RECEIVER and/or EMITTER BOARDS are faulty and need replacing??? Are they replaced as a pair??? Any tests or checks I can do to be sure???
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Check for 120VAC between the "L" & "N" test points while the ice maker is plugged in. Make sure test probes are going 1/2" in. If there is no 120VAC then check for 120VAC between the "L" test point and ground. If there is 120VAC then the problem is a neutral wiring. If there is no 120VAC then, according to the wiring diagram check for continuity between the B/W wire at the ice maker receptacle and the B/W4 wire at the receiver board. If there is nothing wrong then both optic boards have to be replaced (unless there is a broken hot wire somewhere). They come as a kit. - The part number for the optic boards kit is AP3137510 Here are the break down diagrams for the Whirlpool refrigerator Model GS6SHAXLQ03Gene.
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Gene,
Thank you very much for your advice !!! I am excited but I am home only on weekends, so I won't be able to do anything until I come home this weekend.
Some questions/clarifications in preparation for what I might have to do with and after your checklist:
1. "problem is a neutral wiring" - Is this the WHITE wire? If this is the problem (meaning a break in this line?), what can I realistically do about it???
2. "continuity bet. B/W and B/W4 wires" - These are labeled BK/WH and BK/WH4 wires in the wiring diagram, correct???
3. "unless there is a broken wire hot wire somewhere" - How can I find this out and what can I realistically do about it???
Thanks again for your help and patience. You do know that you are helping a lot of people like me, right???
Virgil:)
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Rank: Advanced Member
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Originally Posted by: Virgil 
...1. "problem is a neutral wiring" - Is this the WHITE wire? If this is the problem (meaning a break in this line?), what can I realistically do about it???
2. "continuity bet. B/W and B/W4 wires" - These are labeled BK/WH and BK/WH4 wires in the wiring diagram, correct???
3. "unless there is a broken wire hot wire somewhere" - How can I find this out and what can I realistically do about it???... 1. Yes, this is the White wire. The solution is unpredictable. 2. Correct. 3. Check for incoming power to the boards according to the wiring diagram. Good luck. Gene.
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Rank: Member
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Hello Gene,
Finally home and did some checking. Findings:
1. NO (zero) voltage between the "L" & "N" test points with Icemaker plugged in.
2. Still getting only 60-volts NOT 110-volts between BLACK & WHITE and BLACK & TAN wires in the freezer wall receptacle
3. Still getting only 60-volts NOT 110-volts between BK/WH4 & WH
terminals at Receiver Board.
4. Got 110-volts between BK3 & WH terminals (INPUT?) at Receiver Board.
It looks like a FAULTY RECEIVER BOARD, DO YOU AGREE BEFORE I ORDER REPLACEMENT???
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Rank: Advanced Member
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Yes, I agree. Replacing these boards should solve the problem.
Gene.
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Is this difficult to replace the optic board? Where is it located? We have just replaced the entire ice maker, but it still does not work. The light blinks twice, pause, blinks twice.
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Rank: Advanced Member
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What is the complete model number of the refrigerator?
Gene.
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