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Roper cooling issues after freezer overload

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Long story short is that some stuff was put into the freezer and pushed in. Everything that was in the

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Old 05-27-2010, 07:35 PM
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Default Roper cooling issues after freezer overload
Model Number: RT21LMXKQ03   Brand: Roper   Age: 5 - 10 years   

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Long story short is that some stuff was put into the freezer and pushed in. Everything that was in the freezer got pushed to the back up against the vents. After a couple days I noticed the freezer and refrigerator getting warm which is when I inspected the freezer and found the stuff up against the vents.

I took the back panel off and the coils were completely frosted over so I let those thaw and the unit cooled down to normal temps. Ever since then every two to three days the coils are frosted over and I need to thaw them to get the refrigerator to cool down again.

I'm wondering what could have been damaged by the items in the freezer being pushed up again the vents. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thank you.


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  #2 (permalink)  
Old 05-28-2010, 04:36 AM
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Here are your parts
Replacement parts for WHIRLPOOL RT21LMXKQ03 Refrigerator | AppliancePartsPros.com

Here is a wiring diagram
http://www.servicematters.com/docs/w...%202225759.pdf

Your defrost problem may have just been a coincidence.

First remove the evaporator cover in the freezer so you can see the coils.
Not do not let them de-ice.
If they are heavily iced/frosted over you have a defrost problem.

If yes.
Manually force a defrost cycle by turning the defrost timer cam (Item 4 in Section 3) till the fans and compressor turn off.
There is usually a hole in the control cover to let you do this without removing it.
Now check the defrost heater to see if it is on.
Be careful you do not want to burn your fingers.
If the heater is on then the timer needs replacing, re: it is probably stalling during it's rotation so is never getting into a defrost cycle.

If not on.
Unplug the unit.
Remove the wire for one side of the heating element (Item in 4 Section 4) from the wiring and measure it for continuity, usually around 20 ohms or so.

If the heater is OK
Remove one wire to the defrost thermostat (Item 25 in Section 3) and measure it, should be 0 ohms when frozen. Note that it opens just above freezing so must be frozen to check it. Also inspect it, if it is bulged at all replace it even if it measures OK.

If both the above are OK then odds are the defrost timer contacts are toast.
Best way to test this is a live test to see if you have 120 volts across the heater/defrost thermostat combo.

Also a good idea to check that both fans are running OK and clean your condenser coils.

If you do not own a meter, I would suggest you purchase a one. You can get a decent digital multimeter for under $20.00. You do not need fancy though it is nice if the leads are a couple feet long.
If it saves ordering one unnecessary part it has paid for itself and you end up owning a useful tool.
Most places will not let you return electrical parts so if you order it, you own it.
A couple things to watch when measuring ohms and continuity
1. Always remove power from the machine otherwise you could blow your meter.
2. Always disconnect at least one side of any device you are checking. This eliminates the possibility of measuring an alternate/parallel circuit path.
3. When checking for closed contacts and continuity use the lowest scale (Usually 200 ohms). Then try higher scales. This scale is 0 to 200 ohms so if the device you are measuring is 300 ohms this scale would show an open circuit which it is not, you are just measuring outside the scale's dynamic range.

There is a good STICKY at the start of this forum about it's use.
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