[milleraj10]

I've been trouble shooting my ice maker. The motor, thermostat, mold heater and inlet value appear to function. However, I discovered that I do not have power coming into the ice maker. It appears I have power to the wiring harness but not through the wiring harness. Could the fuse be blown?

Also, I've read on here via some older posts. The recommendation has been to buy a whole new ice maker if the wiring harness/fuse is bad. Is that really necessary? Can you just buy the fuse and/or wiring harness?


Thanks,
Tony

[FridgeDoctor]

instead of telling us what you've done, tell us what was happening BEFORE you started taking it apart and doing who knows what?

You remind me of a customer who was literally one bolt away from removing his compressor from his refrigerator had I not shown up when I did, because his refrigerator was not running.

[milleraj10]

The unit started by intermittently making ice. The cubes were full size when it did make ice. It finally stopped all together. I'm not a big ice user so it was not on the top of my to do list. But I finally got around to looking at that ice maker.

[FridgeDoctor]

Assuming you have had no temperature issues whatsoever with your refrigerator or freezer, a failure with your model's ice maker system can be with the electric eye boards, on either side of the freezer. perform the following tests in this order.

1. Open the freezer door and view the diagnostics “status” LED. Two (2) pulses followed by a one (1)second delay (repeated). The flapper door on the emitter is blocking the beam, the ice maker is switched to off, or The optics are faulty.go to step 2

No lamp. Either ice maker is in the harvest mode-Press in the freezer door switch. When in the harvest mode, the Status LED will flash once every second, or Faulty Status LED-Replace the receiver board.

2. Press in the emitter flapper door to unblock the optics beam. Two (2) pulses followed by a one (1) second delay (repeated). The Optics are faulty. Replace the emitter and receiver boards. If LED is on steadily. The Optics are working properly. Close the freezer door.

1. Disconnect the power supply.
2. Slide the ice maker out and remove the cover.
3. Jumper holes “T” and “H” to bypass the bimetal and start a harvest.
4. Reconnect the power supply.
5. Close the freezer door to align the optics and a harvest cycle will begin in 5 seconds.
6. Open the freezer door and observe the ice maker.
NOTE: If holes “T” and “H” are properly jumpered and the ice maker will not run, stop the test, and check the ice maker.
7. Remove the jumper before the fingers reach 10:00. Reinstall the ice maker, or be prepared to catch the water fill.
8. Immediately disconnect power after the water fill.
9. With the freezer door closed, reconnect the power supply.
10. Wait 5 seconds, then open the freezer door, and watch the Status LED for one of the following codes.

Status LED Output Codes
4 PULSES, repeated once, indicates the relay is defective. Replace both the emitter and receiver boards.
3 PULSES, repeated once, indicates the optics and relay are okay, but the ice maker is not being sensed, or will not operate. If this happens:
• Check the bail arm switch to make sure it is On.
• Check the ice maker circuit and the connections back to the receiver board and neutral.
• Check the ice maker components.
2 PULSES, repeated once, indicates the optics are defective. Repeat the “Optics Diagnostics Procedure,” and replace both boards, if necessary.
STEADY LIGHT for 5 seconds indicates the relay and optics are okay, and the receiver senses the ice maker.
NO LIGHT: Unplug the refrigerator for 5 seconds, and repeat the test.

This is the test procedure directly from Whirlpool. If you are still unable to determine your problem, then im going to have to suggest you have a qualified refrigerator repair service inspect and diagnose your ice maker system.

[milleraj10]

Ok, I am getting the two blinks followed by a one second pause with the flapper door closed. I assume this is the part needing to be replaced?

Part Details - WHIRLPOOL Refrigerator P.C. board kit, part number: AP3137510


Thanks,
Tony

[FridgeDoctor]

Assuming the ice maker switch is set to "on" and you are getting that blink pattern, then yes.

[milleraj10]

hehe. Yes, the switch was on.