is it safe to assume that you had cold temps at the bottom of both sides? Also, when you took off the back wall of freezer, was the upper half of evaporator covered in thick frost, while the lower half had a light even coating? You say you checked fan operation from direct line voltage and the bimetal thermostat clipped to the evaporator had continuity when cold. Ok , you are 2/3 of the way there, or 3/4 if my solution doesnt solve. But you lastly have to check the cal rod defrost heater element. One end of the heater connects to two orange wires with a plug, and the other end connects to a brown wire im pretty sure, also with a plug. Of course, disconnect power first, but then check continuity through this heater element. Since fan was not operating, and fan and bimetal check ok, oh and there is no thermistor connected into the fan circuit, that is strictly for the temperature reading on the control board.

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aparently there is a resistance of 30 for this element , I just blew 50.00 bucks thinking it was to straight continuity , three ice chests with my food going bad , 4years for an amana product of this expence? dosent seem right

thank you for trying to help ,times are tough but where theres a will theres a way just hard wired an extension cord to the fan, fridge now works, or at least til I can afford a replacement, keeping temps checked with indoor outdoor temp display with remote sensor,will I think ,plug main fridge into 15 amp grouded appliance timer to defrost a couple times a day or week depending on what I find out