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Originally Posted by Cavemanbbq WOW!! Please post the pics if you find the time later. This could really help me

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Old 06-24-2011, 03:07 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cavemanbbq View Post
WOW!! Please post the pics if you find the time later.

This could really help me and my family if you don't mind.

I need to get my fridge side operating again like it is supposed too.

Thanks, Jay
I am think of servicing my samsung fridge as well.
However, where can I found the service manual or some web info for it?

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Old 06-24-2011, 03:53 PM
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What is the complete model number of the refrigerator?

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  #53 (permalink)  
Old 07-01-2011, 03:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lightningboltcody View Post
I havce a samsung RF26x aers/xaa having same cooling problem with fridge. Freezer and icemaker ok. How do you access evap side to check on ice. Had a hard time pulling off plastic shroud. Out of warranty
it takes a few days for it to unfreeze... I put a blower in there and get it done faster.
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  #54 (permalink)  
Old 07-01-2011, 04:07 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bajaDean View Post
defrost samsung model RS2555SL with problems
freezer works great, fridge freezes up to a solid chunk of ice, and have to turn off and let it defrost for a few days, have to do this once a month.

I can put it into manual defrost and it does work and turn itself off when it hits about 60 degrees and thermistor has proper resistance readings at 18k ohms (frozen) it allows manual defrost, then around 6.3 k ohms (approx room temp)it shuts off the manual defrost power while the still beeping on the defrost cycle..

because the manual defrost works and shuts off it shows all driver chips,fuses and relays are ok, is the only other thing it can be the timer board chip firmware? Or is there another input that i have overlooked.

Is there a trick/backdoor to re-initialize this chip? TMP87CC40N by toshiba.

I notice the low power reset is a fairchild KA7533 and that samsung did not follow suggested guidelines of a pull up resistor on the output to the reset on the toshiba chip. this low power notification chip stops the main chip when power drops to critical levels from losing execution steps (we call that la-la land). Maybe the chip is going into consistent la-la land (not likely to be consistent) with voltage fluctuations (this fridge is in Mexico) I do not own any type of data logger to watch this voltage over a fewdays or a few hours. Any feedback on this would be appreciated.

fan kicks on when so not that either.

this product worked fine for 3 years.

as a backdoor patch/band-aid, I am thinking of putting in a resistor in series with the defrost sensor to shift the time on the defrost cycle to be longer since it could be that it just does not stay on long enough could be a cheat. I will probably try 2k ohms to start. By the samsung appendix I chart, this would shift from 66 degrees to 85 degrees when it shuts off assuming the auto defrost uses the same threshold as the manual threshold maybe clearing the remaining ice to solve the issue.
well after 2.5 months I can say it is a fix indeed. I never lasted 6 weeks and the normal was 3 weeks.

so if you are giving up with all fixes because everything works like mine did but always froze up do this. do the soldering when the fridge is off. here are some pictures.

this one shows the ice left after a defrost cycle, this should not be there. It is a problem. you can see to the left it doid melt some ice, but there is still a section that is just going to keep building because it did not melt through a complete defrost cycle. I have higher resolution pictures at a link at the bottom of the post.


below is the 2.2 k ohm resistor in series. do it with power unplugged. just cut one yellow wire close to the connector and solder a 10 cent resistor in and tape it



here is a modification to the heat sink. I added some aluminum flashing to make contact on both heater bars to transfer heat to the lower part to melt the ice. make sure you have a curve contact on the bars for better contact area. not shown is I have a tapered small tab on that flashing that also goes into the drain hole to make sure the drain hole is kept from being frozen

I also added a heat sink to the left, it was not making good contact with the sheet metal, so I made a piece that made more contact and stopped it from being a hot spot. which could cause that area to burn out. they tried to do it all with the rivited points, that just is not a lot of contact area.

I bought the aluminum flashing at Ace hardware, but bet you can get small sheets at hobby shops.



here is a bending of the upper tabs to make better contact and allow the water to drop to the bottom during the defrost vs handing on after the defrost and freezing and adding humidity. i only did this on the top row.


here are higher resolution photos if you need them click below
fridge

,,

Last edited by bajaDean : 07-01-2011 at 04:19 PM.
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Old 07-02-2011, 08:50 PM
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Thumbs up Samsung rs253barb

Thanks to Jay and RN for a bundle of information. I followed RN's instructions and tested the heater with a 0 reading. I ordered the evaporator assy from Appliance Pros. Tested the new heater and got 0 reading. Turns out I bought a cheap electrical tester at Harbor Freight and the Ohm reading didn't work!!!!!!!!! Can't blame that one on Samsung.

Performed the tests on the heater and it was good. Yeah! I used the thermistor and thermofuse from the new assy. I later tested the old thermistor at room temperature and there was no reading. When I tested it cold, there was a reading. I now have a spare heater and hopefully a working refrigerator again!
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Old 09-05-2011, 04:39 AM
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Default Samsung Frenchie Fridge RFG238AARS/XAA Frozen Evap

We've had this fridge for 2 years (this week). About a week ago I noticed that the fridge temp was up in the 50s. The fan inside the fridge was was making a clicking sound for about a day or two and then the noise stopped the morning before the guy came to repair it.

We got an extended warranty, so I called Lowes.They sent out a local repair guy. Unfortunately, I wasn't home when he came by so I didn't get to talk to him directly. My wife said that he took the cover off the evaporator unit and it was full of ice -- top to bottom. The ice was so bad, the fan blades were hitting it. He used a hairdryer on it and said it would be good for a little while until it froze back up again. He left a work invoice that said... wait for it... "NEEDS PARTS." He told my wife that it needed a "temperature sensor." About 4 days later I got a call from Lowes. Lowes said that the "evaporator assembly" that my fridge needed was "not available." They are sending me a check for $2300 and suggested I go find a new fridge. HA!

I'm not ready to toss this thing in a landfill just yet. I took the cover off and tested the thermistor. It reads 12.48 in ice water and just under 5 ohms at room temp (85F). The resistance of the heater was 109 ohms and the thermo fuse came in at .01. These seems within range for everything I've read about this type of issue with Samsungs.

Some other important bits: I can feel the compressor come on when I put it in force cool mode. There is no error code on the display when I power cycle it.

I'd love to get this thing diagnosed in the next day given that there are 20-30% sales going on this weekend on new fridges! Any help would be greatly appreciated!!!

Last edited by grindMARC : 09-05-2011 at 05:09 AM.
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  #57 (permalink)  
Old 09-05-2011, 12:57 PM
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Perform the troubleshooting using the attached manual.

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File Type: doc Franch door RFG238 testing.doc (902.5 KB, 97 views)
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  #58 (permalink)  
Old 09-20-2011, 10:16 AM
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Default Samsung RS267LASH NOT COOLING

http://www.zimmreed.com/uploads/Samsung-Complaint.pdf

Hundreds of people have the same issues. The attorney's name for the plaintiff
is at the bottom of the document.

I have the this fridge and have the fridge not cooling. It's happened before and I unplugged it for 1 hour and it started working.
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Old 09-20-2011, 10:39 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by grindMARC View Post
We've had this fridge for 2 years (this week). About a week ago I noticed that the fridge temp was up in the 50s. The fan inside the fridge was was making a clicking sound for about a day or two and then the noise stopped the morning before the guy came to repair it.
!!
if you are tech tou may want to try what I did, by making a better heat transfer to the base, conducting more heat to the lower part and adding in the resistor to shift how long the defroster stays on I have solved my defrosting problem. My fridge has been working for 6 months now, where before it was about 4-6 weeks it would do as you describe.

so again mine worked just fine except it became a solid block of ice. adding the resistor and heat conductors I have no problems now. I showed all mods in previous posts.

anyone in southern california who is going to send theirs to the dump please contact me I will take it.
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Old 09-20-2011, 11:02 AM
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Thanks, Dean. I'll definitely do that if she's frozen up again. I have it on my calendar to check this week.
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