[Wr214]

I have a kitchenaid refrigerator that suddenly stopped running. Thelight inside the unit comes on but there is no sound coming from any of the components other than a sligh click by the ADC. I read the voltage at the pins of the ADC and I have 120 VAC at pin 1 but some fluctuating mV at pin 6 or white wire. In accordance with a pamphlet I found on the web, it states that 120 VAC should be fed to pin 1 and 6. Yet the same 120 VAC is being applied to the light bulb and the light comes on fine. It also states in the cooling mode 120 VAC should come out of pin 4. I have nothing coming out. I want to make sure that the ADC is the culprit before I order it as I don't see any movement from other components like the compressor, relays, thermo switches etc. Is the ADC a high failure component? Where else can I look to further isolate the fault. Thanks in advance. As you can imagine we have no fridge so the pressure is on and any help you guys can give me will be GREATLY appreciated.

[Gene]

Remove the black (#1) and the white (#6) wires from the ADC and check for 120V between them. If there is 120V then replace the ADC.

- The part number for the ADC (adaptive defrost control) is AP3109394

Here are the break down diagrams for the Kitchen Aid refrigerator Model KSCS27QFAL00

Gene.

[Wr214]

Hey Gene,

Thanks for the reply. Here is what I did...I read the voltage across pin 1 and 6 and got the 120VAC. Unplugging the plug and reading across the same two pins got the same 120VAC. (I put the black lead on pin 1 and the red lead on pin 6) I read the voltage across pin 1 and 4 and I get 120VAC. This is supposed to be the cooling mode. Wouldn't that indicate that the signal is being sent to the compressor/overloadswitch etc?

I am having a real tough time pulling these connectors, are they supposed to be this hard to disconnect? I was trying to conduct the resistance measurements on the compressor but I can't even see the connection to get the connector off and perform the readings.

Just read the thermostat and it reads an open with the thermostat off and continuity with the thermostat in the warmest setting but not off so that is eliminated. I will try to eliminate the compressor next.


Ok, I disconnected the two piece section that is attached to the compressor cover by a plastic housing. I read the windings to each other and got 2.4 ohms. Read each to the chassis and got an open so the compressor is eliminated. I read the two piece component (PTC Relay?)that connects to the compressor and got 5.6 ohms between the blue and white wire connections either at pin 5 and 6 or pin 2 and 3.

In accordance to the schematic this is how I am reading:

M (run side) is the blue wire or pin 3 and 5 in the PTC relay
S (Start side) is the white wire or pin 2 and 6 on the PTC relay

Please let me know if I am on the right track.

[Gene]

Disconnect the red and the white wires at the compressor and check for 120VAC across them while the thermostat in the freezer calls for cold.

Post the result.

Gene.

[Wr214]

With the thermostat at the coldest setting there is 20-45mV across the red and white wires.

[Gene]

If the thermostat is closed and there is no power to the compressor then the problem is the adaptive defrost control (ADC).

Gene.

[Wr214]

Thank you very much Gene, I just ordered the part you told me. I will report the results. Thank you so much!

[Wr214]

Hello Gene,

Just wanted to report back that I received the part you suggested and worked like a charm. Thank you very much for your timely information and advice. God Bless you.

Regards,

WR

[Gene]

WR,

I'm glad you were able to fix it.

Gene.