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squier3  
#1 Posted : Friday, January 29, 2010 2:06:18 PM(UTC)
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squier3

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I have alot of ice build up on the evaporator. I checked the heater and its ok. I'm only getting 0.2 ohms of resistance through the defrost thermostat. is this ok? Is there any way to check the Adaptive defrost time?
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denman  
#2 Posted : Friday, January 29, 2010 8:14:02 PM(UTC)
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denman

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Here are your parts
Replacement parts for FRIGIDAIRE FRS6LR5EW6 Frigidaire/refrigerator | AppliancePartsPros.com

Here is a tech sheet
http://manuals.frigidaire.com/prodinfo_pdf/Anderson/240389616.pdf

[COLOR="Blue"]I'm only getting 0.2 ohms of resistance through the defrost thermostat. is this ok?[/COLOR]
Should be 0 ohms but this may just be a meter offset so I would say it is OK.
[COLOR="Blue"]
Is there any way to check the Adaptive defrost time?[/COLOR]
Not the time but you can check the defrost board, see the tech sheet.
Force a defrost cycle if the heater comes on odds are high that the defrost board is shot
THIS FORUM IS DEAD!!!!!!!
squier3  
#3 Posted : Friday, January 29, 2010 9:10:14 PM(UTC)
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squier3

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So the defrost therostat should be 0 ohms all the time, even when its frozen? and why does the heating element coming on indicate a bad board? If you start a defrost cycle isn't the heating element supose to be on? i would figure the heating element coming on would be normal. I'm just curious.
denman  
#4 Posted : Saturday, January 30, 2010 1:02:03 AM(UTC)
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denman

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[COLOR="Blue"]So the defrost therostat should be 0 ohms all the time, even when its frozen? [/COLOR]
No.
It is only 0 ohms when frozen. It should open a few decrees above freezing.
Stops the herater onve the ice has meted off the coils.

[COLOR="Blue"]and why does the heating element coming on indicate a bad board?[/COLOR]
By the process of elimination, if it comes on, the element is good and the defrost thermostat is good, then the only thing left is the defrost thermostat.
Only other thing it could be is a bad wire/connection but this is very very rare.

[COLOR="Blue"]If you start a defrost cycle isn't the heating element supose to be on?[/COLOR]
Yes.
Forcing a defrost cycle checks the heater and the defrost thermostat (if they come on).
Note that if they do not come on this test does not totally eliminate the timer as the problem. That is why you have to check heater and thermostat with.a meter.
If they then check OK, the odds are the timer is cycling properly but it's contacts are shot.
THIS FORUM IS DEAD!!!!!!!
squier3  
#5 Posted : Saturday, January 30, 2010 5:01:14 AM(UTC)
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squier3

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That you very much sir. I am young and very new to the appliance repair business and have no supervisor or trainer to teach me so I am trying to learn all I can. All of the technicians who voluteer their time on this site have been very helpful. I think you for your time and patients
squier3  
#6 Posted : Saturday, January 30, 2010 7:25:33 AM(UTC)
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squier3

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I put the fridge through the defrost mode and nothing happened. what sort of resistance should I be getting from the heater? I'm getting 28.8 ohms through it, and 0.2 through the thermostat when its frozen.
denman  
#7 Posted : Saturday, January 30, 2010 8:20:58 AM(UTC)
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denman

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[COLOR="Blue"]I put the fridge through the defrost mode and nothing happened. what sort of resistance should I be getting from the heater? I'm getting 28.8 ohms through it, and 0.2 through the thermostat when its frozen.[/COLOR]
Both sound OK to me.
Only caveat I have is did you disconnect at least one side of what you were checking. This ensures that you do not read an alternate/parallel circuit path.

IF both are OK that leaves you with a bad board or broken wire.
THIS FORUM IS DEAD!!!!!!!
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