[cooper03]

Both refrogerator and freezer sections went warm. Repairman stated that the motherboard had to be replaced, and upon doing so, advised that since the compressor would not start up, the inverter board was bad. Is there a way to diagnose the failure of an inverter board? I'm not too many parts away from a new refrigerator.

[roycreamer]

if he was wrong, you shouldn't have to pay... that's the way i work it. if you need another part he should put the part in for cost, or give your money back for the motherboard that didn't work, (and may not have been bad)

[cooper03]

Roy, thanks. He did not charge, but if he changes out the Inverter, will charge for both parts and labor, $1,000! I do not have a wiring diagram, but do you know if the inverter has anything to do with starting the compressor?

[GaryW15]

In most cases with the GE refrigerator, the problem in the disc in the compressor start relay. I have had them go bad on 2 of my fridges.

Gary

[richappy]

From the parts breakdown, the overload and start relay are in the inverter, is this correct? Makes no sense as this would provide no thermal overload protection.

[GaryW15]

The part that probably went bad is the "PTC /Overload / Relay" which are all the components of the compressor start relay. If you remove the part and shake it, you will probably hear the broken pieces of the PTC disc. All you need to purchase is the section with the disc.

It's also a good idea to have a spare on hand. The disc only lasts several years. When the disc is starting to go bad, the refrig will have hard starts and shutsowns.

Gary

[richappy]

The compressor start device is in the inverter, and the motherboard controls defrost and evaporator and condenser fan motors. Seems like you will need a new inverter board. Any problems with the motherboard can be diagnosed once you get the compressor running.

[denman]

Do not quite understand how a March 2008 thread got reactivated but here is a good thread ion GE inverters.
GE Profile Artica refrigerator is warm

[richappy]

Denman:
I suspect the compressor runs on a 12 volt, variable frequency square wave.
If so, the compressor could be tested (assuming 60 Hz. is a runnable frequency) with a 12 volt transformer and a manual compressor test box. The unit will draw about ten amps, assuming a 1/5 HP compressor. Current draw over nameplate rating would be a bad compressor.
This would save blowing out a new inverter. Of course, the start and run windings could be determined with accurate, digital ohmeter.
Another idea would be adding a overload klixon to the common terminal, but this assumes the klixon will trip before the inverter power transistors/fet's fail. This just might work