[turn543]

My ice maker just quit working out on the blue. The refer has ice and water in the door and the water works fine. Could you please assist me? Thanks, Scott

[Gene]

Hi Scott,

The first thing I would do: check if the shut off arm is in down position.

Then remove the head cover and check for 120V between the "L" & "N" test points.

If there is 120V - short the "T" & "H" with an insulated piece of wire to run the motor.

If the motor does not run - replace the module assembly or the whole ice maker.

If the motor runs - replace the thermostat.

Leave the jumper wire in for a half of a revolution and remove it. The water valve should be energized in the last half of the revolution.

Post your findings and I will provide the right part number(s).

Gene.

[turn543]

I found the water in the supply line in the top of the freezer to be froze. After thawing out wvwerything worked great. Thanks.
I did break the swing door on the inside left of the fridge that closes when the freezer door is closed, if you could help me with the part # that I can order. Thanks again.

[Gene]

Good job!

The part number for the flipper is AP3037562

The flipper

Gene.

[barry 3]

Originally Posted by Gene

Hi Scott,

The first thing I would do: check if the shut off arm is in down position.

Then remove the head cover and check for 120V between the "L" & "N" test points.

If there is 120V - short the "T" & "H" with an insulated piece of wire to run the motor.

If the motor does not run - replace the module assembly or the whole ice maker.

If the motor runs - replace the thermostat.

Leave the jumper wire in for a half of a revolution and remove it. The water valve should be energized in the last half of the revolution.

Post your findings and I will provide the right part number(s).

Gene.

Gene,
ran 115 VAC through the solenoid valve and the ice tray filled and kept filling until power was removed. Waiting to see if ice is ejected into tray.

bg

[turn543]

my particular problem was related to the valve in the back on the bottom.I removed the hoses and checked the electrical connections and blew out the valve and lines and re-aasembled. After that everything worked well.All that I could figure is that there was some type of restriction and what I did corrected it. It has been working fine for about 6 months now.

[barry 3]

R2 The Ice Maker Assy And Works Fine Now.

Thanks For The Assist.

Regards/bg

[Gene]

We are glad you were able to fix it.

Gene.

[smithb]

Originally Posted by Gene

Hi Scott,

The first thing I would do: check if the shut off arm is in down position.

Then remove the head cover and check for 120V between the "L" & "N" test points.

If there is 120V - short the "T" & "H" with an insulated piece of wire to run the motor.

If the motor does not run - replace the module assembly or the whole ice maker.

If the motor runs - replace the thermostat.

Leave the jumper wire in for a half of a revolution and remove it. The water valve should be energized in the last half of the revolution.

Post your findings and I will provide the right part number(s).

Gene.

I have a whirlpool GS6SHAXLS03 and my ice maker quit working (water feeds fine from the water dispenser). I followed the above instructions and am getting 35.5 VAC from the L/N connection. However, I do not know what the "shut off arm" is referring to. Do I just need a new motor then? Thank you for your help

[Gene]

Shut off arm is a metal wire arm on the right side of the ice maker which can be moved up to turn the ice maker "off" or down to turn it "on".

In your model there is an "on-off" switch on the right side on the wall. If the ice maker is "on" then it looks like there is no power to it. In such situation the problem most likely is a bad optics (#26 & #38 on the diagram)

- The part number for the optics board kit is AP3137510

Gene.