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Frig compressor/relay capacitor

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my frig stopped cooling, when compressor tries to start, it hums then clicks and shuts off. A minute or 2

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  #1 (permalink)  
Old 03-04-2008, 09:41 AM
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Default Frig compressor/relay capacitor
Model Number: 106.9557650   Brand: Kenmore   Age: More than 10 years   

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my frig stopped cooling, when compressor tries to start, it hums then clicks and shuts off. A minute or 2 later it does the same thing. Compressor was changed out about 6-7 years ago (warranty) a Gemline all in one relay-capacitor-overload was installed at that time also.
Any thoughts?

Is there a way to check a relay-capacitor? I do own a good digital ohm/volt meter.


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  #2 (permalink)  
Old 03-05-2008, 03:31 AM
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You should have the factory start/overload installed in the compressor, if not you have pool overload protection and no thermal protection.
I would order the factory start/overload device for your refrigerator and install it. If you have a meter, you can check the compressor windings for burnout.
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Old 03-12-2008, 10:53 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by richappy View Post
You should have the factory start/overload installed in the compressor, if not you have pool overload protection and no thermal protection.
I would order the factory start/overload device for your refrigerator and install it. If you have a meter, you can check the compressor windings for burnout.
Compressor was replaced about 8 years ago, at that time a Gemline "all-in-one" relay/capacitor/overload/thermal was used to replace individual overloads, relays etc.

How would I check the compressor with the meter? I assume you are talking about checking with an Ohm meter?
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Old 03-12-2008, 02:31 PM
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Just check the current draw when it tries to start. Locked rotor current would be around 9 amps for most modern compressors. If much higher, you probably have burn windings.
Also, I hope you unplugged the unit to save the compressor from hard start failure. If they substituted the overload device, it probably is allowing a greater than normal power surge when it tries to start.
Also, ohm meter readings will only tell if the windings are blown out or shorted to the housing. Burnt windings will give normal ohm meter readings.
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