[jeffkrol]

Our funny model number (FUF14DAERWH) GE has stopped working. A brief troubleshooting session has shown that the defrost timer has a contact resistance of 6.5kOhms. Upon me breaking the timer (most troubleshooting sites say it should be a go/not setup which is why I did, try to disassemble the timer, bad idea) I found that inside there was a resistor (and a small coil in parallel to run the clock, yes I broke the clock by opening the housing ). I was saddened to see this resister assuming I now broke a perfectly good part.. BUT the bands were black,brown,brown, gold. This should only be a 10 Ohm resister and it was testing at 6.5kOhms!
Anyways since, relatively speaking, the timer was cheaper than any other parts I could break I was a bit happy. So I tried to find the part. I had the part number 216744400
BUT to my surprise I always came up w/ a Frigidare...
While browsing other on line databases there were a bunch of FUF14DA..something freezers but not my model. I ordered the Frigidare one since the other annoying thing it was at least $20 cheaper then the GE ones. Some of the images of the one I ordered looked identical to the part I had in my hand. same color ect. The only difference was 1)actually that model was replaced by Frigidare and 2) the pictures of the older model had a different spec number (mine is wh-2001-00 where most of these images showed wh-2001-54)
So to GE or not to GE? Does it really make a difference? My only choice seemed to be to buy the Frigidare part (since it was identical in color and specs) over the GE one that was from models that did not exactly match mine.. what a dilemma.
Any suggestions?
BTW I'm still not 100% sure this was the problem but the compressor and fan weren't working but light and power light were).
One other question: Can I bypass this timer) to test the rest of the freezer (jumper 3 to 1,4) to see if everything works without the timer??/

[Gene]

The model number you posted does not come up even on GE web site. Is it an American model?

If it says "12 hours" on the original timer then you can use the new one with no questions.

Gene.

[jeffkrol]

Originally Posted by Gene

The model number you posted does not come up even on GE web site. Is it an American model?

If it says "12 hours" on the original timer then you can use the new one with no questions.

Gene.

Yes I'm pretty sure unless Wausau, WI has moved "across the pond".
as to the timer, yes they are all 12 hours AFAIKT.
I will triple check the model number.
If I remeber correctly some models are specifically made for Sams Club...

[jeffkrol]

Model FUF 14DAERWH
Ser SZ166418
manuf date 9-00
GE
Appliance park
Louisville KY

Sent an email to GE. This has gotten my curiosity up.

[jeffkrol]

New timer came. Still nothing including the timer is not advancing (I'm annoyed I broke a perfectly good timer ). Power light and cabinet light still on. No comressor or fan though. Where does the power to the timer come from. I see one leg from common to timer. I checked to compressor relay and that seems fine from the troubleshooting here.
I either need a wiring diagram or I need to troubleshoot every part (fan, heater, thermostat, temp sensor (which is showing full continuity btw).
I was assuming that the timer basically controlled all components but seem to be the other way around in a sense..
still waiting for GE's answer.

[Gene]

Check for 120VAC between the wires connected to the timer terminals 1 & 3.

Gene.

[jeffkrol]

Originally Posted by Gene

Check for 120VAC between the wires connected to the timer terminals 1 & 3.

Gene.

So I just checked the temp. control. I get nothing across the 2 terminals in any dial position. Shows open all the way. Even checked in high ohms position. Still nothing.
Since my timer test caused me to break a perfectly good timer I'm a bit leery of the results.
Anyways if I jumper the blue and black leads I should get full functioning of all components if I'm "thunking" right, right?
Of course it will never shut off
Didn't get to the 110 test on 1 and 3 though...
BTW: Part # is 216303500
Beginning to think GE series "E" stands for Frigidare...

[Gene]

No continuity across the temperature control terminals while it's in "On" position means the part is bad.

Gene.

P.S. Where and how did you find the part numbers?

[jeffkrol]

Originally Posted by Gene

No continuity across the temperature control terminals while it's in "On" position means the part is bad.

That's what I kind of figured.

Originally Posted by Gene

P.S. Where and how did you find the part numbers?

There on the parts. that's all I can go by since the FUF14DAERWH doen't seem to exist anywhere.
My concern w/ the compressor is right before the freezer went out someone had left the door slightly open. I'm a bit worried that the extra load (could have run for a few days, with a defrost time out of course) has decreased the compressor lifespan. Or may have even caused the failure??

OK, I jumpered the blue and black (bypassing the thermostat) and the circulating fan is running fine. Compressor I will give some time to see how it cools and also to make sure new defrost timer is moving. Then on to ordering a part.

[Gene]

You are on the right track. Keep us posted.

Gene.