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Evap motor 12v or 9.75v?

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GE evap motors --- When Testing the circuits for these motors, they are driven by 4, 8, or 12 vdc,

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Old 08-11-2017, 06:58 PM
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Default Evap motor 12v or 9.75v?
Model Number: psi23ngmbbb   Brand: GE   Age: More than 10 years   

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GE evap motors --- When Testing the circuits for these motors, they are driven by 4, 8, or 12 vdc, depending on how fast they are supposed to be driven at that time.

PROBLEM I don't understand that the ratings all say 9.75 Vdc for MY spec'ed Panasonic motor, which is model WR60X10185 for the GE refrig model psi23ngmbbb ---

SO, is the 9.75 vdc instead of 12vdc a nominal voltage rating, but you can drive it with 12vdc??

Seems VERY odd, but I know I'm seeing a little over 12vdc and I know this is the specified part. SOLVE this mystery spec issue?

Why I care --- I'm replacing the motor, once i have it apart no matter what. However, the part I use will be just using wire nuts and likely NOT the specific model motor. Since they are all Panasonic motors, SEEMS to me that if the specs are the same, ie, 9.75 v 3.3 W, it should work. BUT, I'm bothered even replacing it with the proper one, if the voltages are that different.

After I've repaired the problem--REPORT --- The voltages running the motor are indeed 12v (on high speed). The motor IS a 9.75, just as the spec says it should be. In my case, I did NOT replace the motor. Instead of a slow motor, I found that the fan's friction attachment had reamed out the hole, and it was laying on the motor. It turned, but much slower than it should have, and inconsistently. I inserted a fairly thin wire, in beside the shaft. This made it so tight it was hard to seat it onto the motor. Now, it is cooling properly.

Before, when the switch was depressed, you could hear the fan come on. But, unless you are paying attention to the sound, it was not quite as loud as it should have been. (It IS fairly loud when switch is held in, while the door is open.)

TIPS / WARNINGS ---
When disassembling, make sure you remove those brackets BEFORE you disconnect the Molex plugs. When they finally come out, your hand will, or can get cut from impacting that bracket. It's also a lot easier to get those plugs out.

Removing the "tabs" on the sides, holding some of the shelves up. -- I've seen suggestions that you can simply pop them up from the bottom. Not mine! In my case, I used a wrench to twist them around a few times, and pliers the finally extract them. They were held in with BOTH heavy goppy glue AND a huge staple, that my wrench bent enough to come out. I bent the staple back and it mostly went back in, and will stay in place. What a crappy design though!


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Last edited by DaaBoss : 08-22-2017 at 06:19 PM. Reason: adding AFTER fully repaired
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