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Ukbsktbll  
#1 Posted : Wednesday, May 3, 2017 3:32:39 PM(UTC)
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Ukbsktbll

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I am getting ice around where my ice comes out. I can give the exact model of the fridge if needed. I am attaching a picture. If more or a better one is needed let me know. Thanks
Ukbsktbll attached the following image(s):
20170503_091146.jpg
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PNWDrew  
#2 Posted : Wednesday, May 3, 2017 8:27:26 PM(UTC)
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You're getting outside air up the ice chute past the flapper door that should seal. Shine a flashlight up into dispenser side and see if you can easily see it inside. THat flapper door may be damaged or not closing all the way.
Ukbsktbll  
#3 Posted : Thursday, May 4, 2017 4:20:07 AM(UTC)
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Ukbsktbll

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Yes there is a little light showing though. Does that flap need to be replaced?
PNWDrew  
#4 Posted : Thursday, May 4, 2017 5:55:41 AM(UTC)
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Maybe, post your model #.
The rubber edges of the flaps can curl up and fail to seal. The solenoid that opens and closes it may fail or rust up also.
You'll want to address it because it will block ice delivery but it's an annoyance more than a major issue.
Ukbsktbll  
#5 Posted : Thursday, May 4, 2017 6:53:55 AM(UTC)
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Ukbsktbll

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Gshs6ngbbhss
PNWDrew  
#6 Posted : Thursday, May 4, 2017 11:43:12 AM(UTC)
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Originally Posted by: Ukbsktbll Go to Quoted Post
Gshs6ngbbhss


That uses a solenoid to open the ice door flap. You'll need to access it from the outside to see why it isn't sealing. Pretty straight forward to get to. I think there's release slots for the user interface panel to pull off. Under its bottom edge. After that part it's pretty obvious. You'll probably find that the rubber edges ofbthe flap are curled or the solenoid isn't returning all the way due to a rusted-out spring or rusted-out solenoid plunger.

If it is the flap that will need to be replaced. if it is the moving plunger of the solenoid you may get away with separating it from the magnetic part of the solenoid and sanding it clean so it doesn't hang up. If you do that code it with some sort of oil or grease to hopefully inhibit the future rusting process .

Neither part is very expensive here so it might be worth just changing those if they are suspect.
Ukbsktbll  
#7 Posted : Saturday, May 6, 2017 5:23:34 AM(UTC)
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Ukbsktbll

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yea that is what I thought from watching some videos. I'll try that
PNWDrew  
#8 Posted : Saturday, May 6, 2017 7:51:36 AM(UTC)
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Good luck, it isn't difficult. I'm sure you'll find the issue once you can actually see it.
Ukbsktbll  
#9 Posted : Tuesday, May 9, 2017 11:30:40 AM(UTC)
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Ukbsktbll

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So I took off the panel to access the ice flapper. It looks good but I found it on amazon so it would be an easy buy and switch. I did notice the foam around it looked like it may be the issue but when shining a light it doesn't show up where the foam looks indented. though it looks as though their wasnt ever full thickness foam there. As in doesnt look damaged. Now I am far from an expert so if you think its the flapper after looking at this I will attempt to change that.
Ukbsktbll attached the following image(s):
20170509_122555.jpg
PNWDrew  
#10 Posted : Tuesday, May 9, 2017 12:15:17 PM(UTC)
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GE WR17X11653 Ice Door Assembly - AppliancePartsPros.com

That looks wrong. The whole black rubber piece is part of the flap.

It should pop off the arm easily so you can inspect it. It looks like it is closing fully in that pic so your solenoid is probably ok...
If the edges are curled or there's any way air is passing it I'd change it. I just go by the flashlight test. If I can see light shining down from inside or up from outside then there is a gap. If you remove the ice bin you can watch it in action without getting ice in your face.

Freezers are in a slight vacuum and will suck room air in. The moisture condenses out and freezes as that air cools. So frost in that chute usually means air is coming up it.
Compare it to a new one in the link.
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