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Freezer Temperature Control Interchangeability

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I have a GE freezer model# FUF 14DAERWH. The temperature controller went bad. I verified this by turning the controller

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  #1 (permalink)  
Old 02-14-2017, 08:25 AM
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Default Freezer Temperature Control Interchangeability
Model Number: FUF 14DAERWH   Brand: GE   Age: More than 10 years   

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I have a GE freezer model# FUF 14DAERWH.
The temperature controller went bad. I verified this by turning the controller all the way clockwise and counter clockwise without the compressor starting. After removal it failed a continuity test. I then jumped the two leads and the freezer ran find and reached -10 after about an hour or so.

Unfortunately, the original part (Frigidaire Part# 216303500) is no longer available, nor is the replacement part (Frigidaire Part# 216303600). Figuring all freezer temperature controllers work more or less the same, I bought this one because it had the right connections and would be adaptable to mount in the same spot.
Frigidaire Part# 297216004

It mounts fine and gets the freezer nice and cold. The more I turn the knob, the warmer or cooler it gets. The problem that I am having is that the freezer seems to be running all of the time. If I turn the knob to a warmer setting the freezer will immediately stop running and then start again later when it needs to adjust to the new setting. But after that, it seems that the compressor continues to run - never stopping on its own due to a temperature change in the freezer.

This doesn't makes sense to me... Is there something odd about the replacement control I bought? Should I try a different one? If so, any suggestions.

Thanks in advance for any replies,

CeeZar


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  #2 (permalink)  
Old 02-15-2017, 10:26 PM
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Did you slide the insulator cover (if it had one) onto the new one? The bulb end of the capacitor should be at or barely protrude from the cover. It should also ideally be where the original one was located. Unless it is a refrigerator control or otherwise calibrated to a different temp range. The control end can be anywhere but the capillary end is important for temp control. Perhaps relocate it into a spot where it feels colder?

In theory any line voltage thermostat that is set to open at whatever temp you want should be suitable. The capillary tube of the thermostat is filled with a gas that expands and contracts, the thermostat reads the pressure and responds accordingly. So any similar 2 terminal thermostat should work. However if that cap tube is badly kinked or broken at the control end it's kaput.

Even a basic bimetallic non adjustable thermostat would work if you could find one that operates at about 10 degrees.

If you still have the original you may be able to repair it, depending on what went wrong. Usually the contacts burn up, perhaps you could repair them somehow if you are creative.

As a last resort something like this might do the job
https://www.amazon.com/WILLHI-WH1436.../dp/B00V4TJR00

Last edited by PNWDrew : 02-15-2017 at 10:35 PM.
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  #3 (permalink)  
Old 02-16-2017, 04:25 AM
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Yes, I used the insulating cover from the original part. It attached to a heat sink and the heat sink assembly to the back of the cabinet. All just as the original installation - all behind the evaporator cover. It looks similar to this



I could drill a hole in the cover and move the capillary end to inside the box/outside of the evaporator cover. Perhaps the fan motor is generating a little heat keeping the parts behind the evaporator cover from getting as cold as the rest of the freezer.

Last edited by CeeZar : 02-16-2017 at 04:32 AM.
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Old 02-17-2017, 01:01 PM
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If the system is working normally that evaporator might be -10 degrees so I doubt there could be enough heat from the motor two change that very much. I'd guess your new thermostat is set to allow a larger temperature swing and isn't reaching the temperature it wants to turn the machine off. Maybe if you can get that capillary end closer to the actual evaporator somehow it would report cold enough?
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