Two days ago we found our 9 year old Gladiator refrigerator/Freezer not cooling and all the food defrosting. Don't tell the wife, but the freezer portion of the unit had way too much food in it. The compressor was not running so I turned the switch inside the refrigerator off. I notice the interior light would dim when I turned the switch on and get bright again when I turned the switch off. The compressor would not run.

The next day I cleaned the interior and turned the refrigerator on. It ran perfectly. Actually, it purred like a kitten. I put a thermometer and plastic cup of water in the freezer, a second thermometer in the refrigerator, and turned the temperature control to coldest setting.

The following morning, I found the freezer at -10 degrees, the refrigerator at 36 degrees and the cup of water frozen solid.

I turned the temperature setting back from the maximum setting until the compressor stopped running (approximately 3/8") and checked it again later that day. I found the freezer temperature at 10 degrees and the refrigerator at 45 degrees. The compressor was still not running.

I left the temperature control set as is and a few hours later (5:00pm), I found the compressor running with the freezer temperature at 10 degrees and the refrigerator temperature at 45 degrees.

Six hours later, the compressor was still running the freezer temperature was 5 degrees and refrigerator temperature 42 degrees.

This morning, I found the compressor running, the freezer temperature at -10 and the refrigerator at 36 degrees.

I tuned the thermostat to a warmer setting and will check the temperature again this afternoon.

The refrigerator compartment is cooled by allowing air from the freezer compartment to be circulated into the refrigerator section by a fan in that links the freezer compartment to the refrigerator compartment. A shutter in the fan opening can be opened or closed to regulate the amount of cold air being blown into the refrigerator from the freezer. Currently, the shutter is not fully open so I could probably lower the refrigerator temperature further by positioning the fan opening to the shutter to the full open position.

I can't explain why the refrigerator seems to be running okay, but I am certain of one thing. The problem will return if I do nothing and load the food back into the refrigerator.

I figure there are several items that may be defective. Unfortunately, my Fluke meter does not have cap measuring capability so I am unable to check the capacitor uF. That being said, I am assuming it would be a good idea to replace the start relay and overload capacitor. Is there anything else I should replace while I am at?

I have to remove one side rail on a 16 foot wide garage door to move the refrigerator away from the wall so I would like to replace anything that should be replaced at the same time.

Thanks Bill