Customer Support 7 days a week

Welcome Guest! To enable all features please Login or Register.

Notification

Icon
Error

New Topic Post Reply
Options
Go to last post Go to first unread
WKT  
#1 Posted : Wednesday, September 2, 2015 9:20:29 AM(UTC)
Quote
WKT

Rank: Member

Groups: Registered
Joined: 9/2/2015(UTC)
Posts: 4

Last week, the freezer started intermittently thawing, causing the ice to melt. It would freeze again later, but then thaw again. The refrigerator seemed to be working fine.

I got a thermometer and the freezer was going up into the 30's, then back down to zero. Now the refrigerator seems to be following, with temps up toward 50.

The compressor seems to be working fine, it does start up and run. The condenser fan seems to be be running fine, as well as the evaporator fan. I don't see any frost on the coils, but I did turn the freezer temp control to a lower setting, since I took everything out of the freezer anyway.

The drain tube seems to be clear, there is a small amount of moisture in the pan below.

What is the most likely problem? I would have no problem replacing a fan or the electronic board, but obviously would not want to if it could be a compressor issue. I've also been reading that replacement of the board should be followed by replacement of the evaporator fan motor. Is that true.

Thanks for your time. :)
Sponsor
See inside of your appliance - diagrams and part photos for virtually every model.

powered by AppliancePartsPros.com
 
WKT  
#2 Posted : Wednesday, September 2, 2015 7:04:09 PM(UTC)
Quote
WKT

Rank: Member

Groups: Registered
Joined: 9/2/2015(UTC)
Posts: 4

Also, for what it's worth, I cleaned the condenser coils which were quite dirty, but it didn't seem to help.
WKT  
#3 Posted : Thursday, September 3, 2015 1:10:58 AM(UTC)
Quote
WKT

Rank: Member

Groups: Registered
Joined: 9/2/2015(UTC)
Posts: 4

A little while ago I found that it's all but quit working. The temperature in the refrigerator is almost 60, but luckily I have small one that I was able to save the most important things. The compressor is still turning on occasionally, and it doesn't seem to be labored or clicking when it comes on.

If anyone has any suggestions on what to check or replace, I would greatly appreciate any help. If I can't get some parts ordered today, I'm afraid I'll just have to call someone to come look at it. I have no problem doing that, but hate to spend the money for a service call if it's simply a part that I can replace myself and save that extra money.

Thanks again. :)
denman  
#4 Posted : Thursday, September 3, 2015 2:25:46 AM(UTC)
Quote
denman

Rank: Advanced Member

Groups: Senior Expert
Joined: 2/29/2008(UTC)
Posts: 19,638

Thanks: 1 times
Was thanked: 11 time(s) in 11 post(s)
Here are your parts includes a wiring diagram.
Parts for Frigidaire FRS26LH5DS9 Refrigerator - AppliancePartsPros.com

You do not have to replace the evaporator fan when replacing a control board on this unit. That only applies to units that use a DC fan. Yours is AC.

First I would check the frost pattern on the evaporator coils. It should be fairly even. Be sure that the compressor has run for at least 30 minutes before doing this or you may come to the wrong diagnosis.

If there is only frost in one area usually where the freon enters the coils then you have a sealed system problem. This will be an expensive repair as you need a pro so often it makes more sense to put the dollars towards a new unit.

More likely it could be a defrost problem or a control thermostat problem.

When the temperature is rising (I am assuming that the compressor is off) move the control thermostat up/down a bit (not to off). If the unit fires up then replace the thermostat.

Also could be a defrost problem.
The defrost time is a set time usually around 30 minutes.
There is a defrost thermostat clipped at the top of the evaporator coils. It opens just above freezing.
So once all the ice has melted off the coils the thermostat opens, killing power to the defrost heater. The defrost cycle then continues but the heater is off.
What may be happening is that the thermostat is not opening so the heater stays on and warms up the freezer compartment.
Check the defrost thermostat with a meter should be infinite ohms when not frozen.
Also if it is deformed/bulged replace it even if it measures OK.

Note the I am going to the lake later today so will not be available till next week for any additional help.
If you need assistance quicker then you may want to start a new post.
THIS FORUM IS DEAD!!!!!!!
WKT  
#5 Posted : Thursday, September 3, 2015 3:37:34 AM(UTC)
Quote
WKT

Rank: Member

Groups: Registered
Joined: 9/2/2015(UTC)
Posts: 4

Thanks for your reply, denman.

I checked the defrost thermostat and it gives no continuity reading whether frozen or not. Since it's an inexpensive part, I think I'll replace it and see what happens. Hopefully I can find one locally and find out today if that was the problem.

If you guys ever need some help with ceramic tile or stone installation, visit us over at JohnBridge.com. We're a friendly bunch over there. I'm a moderator there, just ask for Kman. :)
Quick Reply Show Quick Reply
Users browsing this topic
New Topic Post Reply
Forum Jump  
You can post new topics in this forum.
You can reply to topics in this forum.
You can delete your posts in this forum.
You can edit your posts in this forum.
You cannot create polls in this forum.
You can vote in polls in this forum.