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Model Number: GTS22WCMBRBB Brand: GE Age: 5 - 10 years
2002 GE Fridge/Freezer
Freezer and fridge randomly quit cooling. Problem is more apparent in the freezer. Sometimes works fine, then just quits cooling, but still runs. No apparent pattern, seems very random. Sometimes runs for a couple days no problems, then one day will be bad with stopping cooling every few hours. No apparent leaks or wire corrosion. Both fans condensor and evap are running fine. No frost buildup or leaks. Drain tube is clear. Compressor runs upon plugging in appliance. Stops after awhile, and is warm (not hot) to the touch. "Never-Clean" coil system by GE supposedly does not require the coils to be cleaned. Any ideas? Where should I start? Where can i get a repair manual? Thanks, Allan Ads By Google Related Models |
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I thinK it may be the thermistors. They are bulged and black on one end. Something I read says they should be white and flat on top.
Can I just cut the old thermistor off and splice the wires with the new one? Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks, Allan |
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I tested the resistance on all 3 thermistors and they are reading correct resistance readings (16 ohms at 32 degrees.).
I will contimue testing other parts. Any help would be appreciated... Thanks. Last edited by utzig : 10-28-2009 at 01:51 AM. |
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I removed and tested the defroster heater. It reads 0 ohms, which as I understand means it is bad.
However wouldn't this make the freezer frost up???? The freezer and fridge are just not cooling. They randomly stop cooling, then will work awhile again, but there is no frost build up. Does that make sense? "Heater element tests bad, but I am not getting frost build up on coils or inside freezer." Defroster Timer would make more sense to me, but the heater tested bad. I can't find the timer for this model. I look in the service manual and parts list and it does not show a timer anywhere??? I am trying to provide as much information as possible to get to the root of problem. I will be replacing the heater first thing in the morning. I will continue testing vital elements to see if anything else is bad. I also tested the thermostat and it tested good. IT MUST BE THE HEATER? Update: New heater also tests at 0 ohms??? I must have bad info that a 0 ohms reading means it is bad heater. The new one also tests at zero. So either I had bad info on how to do the test, or the new one is broken when I bought it????? I AM STARTING TO THINK MAIN CONTROL BOARD NOW. THE SALESPERSON SAYS THAT IS MOST COMMON ON MY REFRIGERATOR. HE SAYS THEY KEEP MANY IN STOCK AS THEY ARE PRONE TO GO OUT AND THE DO LIFETIME WARRANTY FOR EXTRA $16. please help... Thanks, Allan Last edited by utzig : 10-28-2009 at 10:47 AM. |
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