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tjg79  
#1 Posted : Saturday, July 12, 2014 7:01:26 AM(UTC)
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tjg79

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Posts: 22

Hi,

My GE Refrigerator doesn't cool sufficiently. I've placed refrigerator/freezer thermometers in the two compartments and observed the poor cooling performance. There is no frost build-up. I've got the ice-maker in the off mode. The defrost timer and the defrost heater both appear function normally. I suspected the temperature control, because making adjustments caused unusual results. With the refrigerator control set to #7, the freezer would get to about 5˚F and the refrigerator would only get to about 44˚F. If I adjusted the refrigerator control to #8 or #9, the compartments would get warmer instead of cooler. It appeared that the #7 setting was the coolest, but not sufficient to get the refrigerator to the desired 34˚F to 40˚F range.

I just replaced the temperature control with an aftermarket brand and set the refrigerator controls to their initial settings of "C" for the freezer and #5 for the refrigerator. The temperatures after about 24 hours were about 28˚F for the freezer and 54˚F for the refrigerator. I've adjusted the refrigerator control to #7 and will wait 24 hours to see if it improves the temperature readings. After a few hours, I don't see any promising changes in temperature.

I've cleaned the condenser coils under the refrigerator and I'm considering some partial disassembly to do a more thorough cleaning.

I suspect I could have a compressor or refrigerant issue with this refrigerator.

Does anyone have any suggestions on what to do to resolve the cooling issue? Do I need to check the compressor performance and refrigerant charge? If so, what's the approve method to do so.

Thanks in advance for your assistance.

Regards

PS
I cycled the temperature control knob to off and then back on to the #9 setting. I could hear the compressor shutdown, then start again and subsequently shutoff with the temperature control on the #9, coldest setting. The compressor fan shutdown as well. It must be on the same circuit as the compressor motor. The evaporator fan did not shutdown. I suspect the compressor shutdown due to overheating. The compressor was very hot to the touch. I measured the temperature with a IR thermometer and the reading was 168˚F. So, in addition to what I indicated above, I suspect the compressor is overheating when the temperature control is cycled to off and then back on. Is this normal or does it indicate a problem with the refrigerant circuit?

Regards
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richappy  
#2 Posted : Sunday, July 13, 2014 3:02:28 AM(UTC)
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richappy

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Remove the freezer back panel and describe the frost pattern, complete, heavy frost, or partial?
tjg79  
#3 Posted : Sunday, July 13, 2014 3:28:00 AM(UTC)
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tjg79

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I've checked the frost pattern several times and it appears that only about 1/3 of the bottom half of the evaporator is frosted. The top half doesn't have any frost that I've detected yet.

The compressor appears to run continuously with the exception of the defrost cycle and is very hot when touched.

I suspect a failing compressor at this point in time. The original compressor is rated at 800 BTUs. I'm trying to determine if a 820 BTU rated GE compressor with universal base will fit and mount in the original compressor's position.

Thanks for the assistance.

Regards
richappy  
#4 Posted : Sunday, July 13, 2014 5:52:08 AM(UTC)
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richappy

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Yes, you have a damaged compressor/ refrigerant leak, not worth fixing.
tjg79  
#5 Posted : Sunday, July 13, 2014 6:08:30 AM(UTC)
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tjg79

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I think I can get a new GE 820 BTU R-12 compressor for about $100. I think it's still economical to fix. I've got the refrigerant and the tools and equipment to replace the compressor.
richappy  
#6 Posted : Sunday, July 13, 2014 7:50:17 AM(UTC)
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richappy

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Looks like you have the infamous rotary compressor in this, They recalled them in 1991, replaced them free. I am surprised yours still works unless you have the hot dog shaped one. If so, they are pretty rugged, just re-charge, should be ok, unless you have a fast refrigerant leak. If so, you will need to find the leak which is hard to do without fluorescent die.
tjg79  
#7 Posted : Sunday, July 13, 2014 3:43:42 PM(UTC)
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tjg79

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I've had this refrigerator since January 1989. I think it was manufactured in 1987. I wasn't aware that there was a recall for the compressor. I'm not sure that I have the recalled rotary compressor.

I've done a cursory scan with my refrigerant detector with negative results. I've ordered a low pressure side valve. Firstly, I'll braze on the valve and check the system pressure. If it just appears low, I'll top it up with refrigerant, monitor the system performance, and try to detect any leaks. If the system pressure appears normal, I'll replace the compressor.

If there is a leak in the system, it's a very slow leak.

Thanks for the assistance.
richappy  
#8 Posted : Monday, July 14, 2014 12:55:28 AM(UTC)
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richappy

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Use a piercing valve, much cheaper and easier, just top off the refrigerant,no need to purge the system.
tjg79  
#9 Posted : Sunday, May 29, 2016 12:06:58 PM(UTC)
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tjg79

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Is there a recommended location to install the service port?

I'll put it on the low side, but I'd like to know if there is a preferred location.

There are three copper tubes attached to the compressor. It's my understanding that one is the high side which is attached to the top, one is the low side which is attached near the bottom, and one is just a short piece attached to the top of the compressor and is crimped and brazed off. It's my understanding that this was the line used to initially charge the compressor during manufacture. Would this be a good location to install the piercing service port?

Regards
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