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kwolfe  
#1 Posted : Sunday, March 16, 2014 6:34:38 AM(UTC)
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kwolfe

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So we have a partially running Maytag right now. Cools enough for the fridge but not the freezer. Had so much dog hair caught up in the condenser fan it stopped it. This happened about a year ago and it started running fine after a fews days of cycling, but I think our luck has run out now.

Which brings me to the GE. Just picked up one off an ad I found. They were told that the motherboard needed to be replaced but I am not sure if that's the issue or not.

The said that after they moved it across the kitchen, it wouldn't work right anymore. When I plug it in, I can hear the condenser hum but not run. After about 7 seconds or so, the start relay clicks and it shuts off. It will do this about ever minute. The condenser fan never turns on.

If I leave it plugged in, I can hear the evap fan start, run for a minute then stop.

I pulled out my voltage meter. From the starter relay I get 120v when going from top left to the bottom hole and top right to the bottom hole. I switched to ohms and I get 5,7 and 12 for the compressor.

I visually inspected the motherboard and don't see any burnt joints.

I got the fridge for free so if its garbage, then I only wasted the gas and time to get it. If the compressor is locked up, then I know its time to cut my losses however if its something else then I think I can fix it.
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richappy  
#2 Posted : Sunday, March 16, 2014 10:21:58 AM(UTC)
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richappy

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Remove the 3 pin power connector from the motherboard and put a wire jumper between the mating pins labeld line and comp. Plug fridg in, if the compressor runs fine, you have a bad motherboard
kwolfe  
#3 Posted : Sunday, March 16, 2014 12:15:15 PM(UTC)
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kwolfe

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Well I tired that and no dice. The compressor is getting energized, but after about 7-10 seconds of compressor buzzing, the starter relay clicks and it stops.

Is the compressor locked?
richappy  
#4 Posted : Sunday, March 16, 2014 2:45:07 PM(UTC)
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richappy

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Seems like a bad start device (AP4300623) rather expensive. Pull it off the compressor and shake it, if it rattles, it's bad.
If you have an ohm meter, check across the bottom pins that plug in the compressor, if open, it's bad.
kwolfe  
#5 Posted : Sunday, March 16, 2014 3:06:15 PM(UTC)
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kwolfe

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I tried the ohm meter. It flashed 11 for a second and then went to 1 (open I would guess). I flipped it over and tapped it and got the same thing. Testing it again just showed 1. Should it read a constant ohm reading all the time? I shook and it rattled a little but not like it is full of rocks. Just a small rattle. Should I hear nothing at all when shaking it?
richappy  
#6 Posted : Sunday, March 16, 2014 3:19:48 PM(UTC)
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richappy

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Your start device is bad, order a new one on this site. Hopefully, this is the only problem.
kwolfe  
#7 Posted : Sunday, March 16, 2014 3:41:12 PM(UTC)
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kwolfe

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Ok thanks for the help. I'll post when I get the stater relay installed. Just for my information, how does the bad relay keep the compressor from fully starting? I mean I can hear it buzz however it never seems to get going. Just curious for the future.
richappy  
#8 Posted : Sunday, March 16, 2014 11:59:35 PM(UTC)
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richappy

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The ptc device in the start device is blown, provides short term start winding current to start the compressor.
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