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My refrigerator is not staying cool. I cleaned the coils as well as possible, checked the fan, compressor etc, all

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Old 10-19-2009, 06:02 AM
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Default Problems with Maytag Fridge
Model Number: MBR2256kes   Brand: Maytag   Age: 1 - 5 years   

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My refrigerator is not staying cool. I cleaned the coils as well as possible, checked the fan, compressor etc, all seems ok. I opened up the back of the freezer and the internal coils were all frozen up. i defrosted and everything worked fine. Week later same problem. I think the auto defroster is bad, but i cannot find the defrost timer, etc on this fridge to save my life. Any guidance please?


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  #2 (permalink)  
Old 10-19-2009, 06:44 AM
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Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by nosborne411 View Post
My refrigerator is not staying cool. I cleaned the coils as well as possible, checked the fan, compressor etc, all seems ok. I opened up the back of the freezer and the internal coils were all frozen up. i defrosted and everything worked fine. Week later same problem. I think the auto defroster is bad, but i cannot find the defrost timer, etc on this fridge to save my life. Any guidance please?
On your model the defrost system is controlled by the board behind the console where you set the units temps. Below is a picture.


Part number: AP4366538

Part number: AP4366538
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Old 10-19-2009, 06:48 AM
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Is it your opinion that i have something wrong with the whole board and i will need to replace it?

How do you open up the console? I tried to get it open, but didnt know if there was a trick to it.

Is this something that is easy to replace?

Thanks
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Old 10-19-2009, 07:22 AM
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Here is a tech sheet and a manual
http://www.servicematters.com/maytag...s/16025629.pdf
http://www.servicematters.com/maytag...s/16026956.pdf

Try to force a defrost, see the tech sheet.
If the defrost element comes on then your defrost control board is toast.

If it does not come on, the easiest way is to use a meter and check the defrost element (30 ohms approximately) and the defrost thermostat (closed, 0 ohms when frozen, note it opens just above freezing)

If both check out OK then it is probably the board or you have a bad connection. Most likely the board.

If you do not own a meter, I would suggest you purchase a one. You can get a decent digital multimeter for under $20.00. You do not need fancy though it is nice if the leads are a couple feet long.
If it saves ordering one unnecessary part it has paid for itself and you end up owning a useful tool.
Most places will not let you return electrical parts so if you order it, you own it.
A couple things to watch when measuring ohms and continuity
1. Always remove power from the machine otherwise you could blow your meter.
2. Always disconnect at least one side of any device you are checking. This eliminates the possibility of measuring an alternate/parallel circuit path.
3. When checking for closed contacts and continuity use the lowest scale (Usually 200 ohms). Then try higher scales. This scale is 0 to 200 ohms so if the device you are measuring is 300 ohms this scale would show an open circuit which it is not, you are just measuring outside the scale's dynamic range.

There is a good STICKY at the start of this forum about it's use.
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Old 10-19-2009, 07:26 AM
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Will do. Thanks for the info and manuals. Hopefully its a pretty easy fix.
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Old 10-21-2009, 08:39 AM
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Default Continued issue

How do you know for sure if the defrost is coming on? I forced a defrost on the fridge as suggested, and i think it turned on the defrost, but i am not 100% sure. before i spend $80 on the part, is there any way to guarantee that the defrost is coming on and the issue is the circuit board? Should I unload the freezer, take off the back panel and see if i can notice the defrost working?
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Old 10-21-2009, 08:53 AM
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Should I unload the freezer, take off the back panel and see if i can notice the defrost working?
Yes.
Do it after the unit has run for awhile. The reason is that if the defrost thermostat is not frozen the defrost heater will not come on.
The defrost thermostat opens just above freezing.
Be careful do not burn your fingers.
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Old 11-17-2009, 05:37 AM
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Default Problem continued

Denman

Sorry for the break in time. I have been doing the forced defrost (short cycle) for a few weeks now to see if i could determine the problem. I force defrost every day or couple of days and the fridge is staying cold. However, the back panel of the freezer is all frosted up and i have a feeling that the coils are a big block of ice. Does this mean that the control board is messed up or could it be that the coil heater isnt working?

Thanks
  #9 (permalink)  
Old 11-17-2009, 08:53 AM
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Since you can force a defrost I would say that the board is toast.

Only way to tell for sure is to remove the evaporator coil cover, force a defrost and see if the heater comes on.
If it does the board is toast.
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