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SpAcenut  
#1 Posted : Thursday, February 13, 2014 11:08:29 AM(UTC)
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SpAcenut

Rank: Member

Groups: Registered
Joined: 2/13/2014(UTC)
Posts: 2

Hello,

Thanks for the great site! Was able to fix one problem of the fan in freezer going on and off for the first 5-10 minutes of being powered up, replaced the Adaptive Defrost Control Board and solved that problem. Now, with new ADC board, the damper is not opening. It does an initial cycle of opening and closing when first powered up but it remains closed. I used an ohm meter to test the temp control switch, Part Number AP3964661 in the diagram on your site, and I do get continuity when I turn the switch on. However, the fan doesn't turn on and the damper remains closed. I turn on the freezer control and the fan turns on fine. If the temp control for the fridge side gets continuity when turned on, is it possible that it is still the switch? Again, the damper does open and close when the power connector is connected, so I am assuming the damper motor should be OK. I did the usual male thing and made a mistake by not reading the instructions for the ADC board. It came with a new wiring harness and I was told that the connector in the fridge would not connect to it properly. However when I looked at the socket, it looked the same and I connected it with the old wiring harness. At that time, there were two wiring connections on the damper motor and it would open and close constantly, again, assuming that this was happening, the damper motor was fine. Did I mess up something in the ACD board by using the old wiring harness? The new harness only has one connector and the instructions say to connect the wire connector to the switch closest to the ABS foam of the damper duct. Please tell me I didn't fry this new ACD board..?? Thanks again for a great site!
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SpAcenut  
#2 Posted : Friday, February 14, 2014 2:34:58 PM(UTC)
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SpAcenut

Rank: Member

Groups: Registered
Joined: 2/13/2014(UTC)
Posts: 2

I disconnected the black and purple/white wires going to the fridge control switch and connected them together, thinking if there was power going to the switch, it would basically be hotwired and open the damper door. I got nothing at all when I did this. Wouldn't this have opened the damper door? I dont know what voltage I should be reading at either of the wires, nor do I know which wire is the hot and where I should connect the volt meter on the other side to complete the circuit for a valid reading. Any hep here would be great.

Thanks... Awaiting your reply. Have a great weekend!
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