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The refrigerator turns on, both fans run, compressor gets pretty hot but no cooling. I first thought there could be

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  #1 (permalink)  
Old 11-20-2013, 05:26 AM
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Default whirlpool side by side not cooling
Model Number: gs6shaxml00   Brand: Whirlpool   Age: More than 10 years   

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The refrigerator turns on, both fans run, compressor gets pretty hot but no cooling. I first thought there could be a problem with dust in condenser coils. Cleaned that. There does seem to be an intermiittent clicking from compressor area. Could compressor get hot but not be running? It seems to be running but maybe just trying to, or maybe cycling due to low refrigerant. Any help or answers appreciated.


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  #2 (permalink)  
Old 11-20-2013, 08:39 AM
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The clicking you are hearing is likely from the start device on the left side of the compressor. If you pull that off after unplugging the refrigerator and shake it, does it rattle? If so, it will need to be replaced. The correct start device for your model is available at the link below.

Whirlpool 2319792 Start-Dev - AppliancePartsPros.com
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Old 11-20-2013, 11:10 AM
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Thanks for the advice-I'll check the device when I get home. Would the compressor "black ball" still get that hot if this were happening-(compressor turning off and on- or trying to run?) Thanks!
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Old 11-20-2013, 11:13 AM
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Yes, it will get very hot.
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Old 11-20-2013, 07:27 PM
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I took out the start device you spoke of which has a capacitor attached to it. It does not "rattle" when shaken but does make a very light sound that could be described as ticking but not quite rattling. I was expecting to hear something much louder. Is this light minor ticking, rattling enough to indicate a problem? I was going to test the capacitor but will have to check it with my good fluke meter which is at the shop. I did manage to check resistance and from the 2 terminals which the red/white wires connect to the device there is continuity to two of the three posts which connect to the compressor. one has continuity to one and the other has continuity to a different one and neither has continuity to the third terminal. Thanks.
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Old 11-20-2013, 07:30 PM
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That capacitor is a run capacitor and is optional, it will run without it. It is there only for efficiency. The two holes that are side by side on that start device, can you test the resistance between them, please? It should be pretty low, around 4-5 ohms.
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Old 11-20-2013, 08:58 PM
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Are you referring to the 2 female terminals of the 3 that plug into the compressor male pins? Ie: the bottom 2 side terminals that would be the bottom of the 3 terminal triangle arrangement of compressor terminals. If so they're open. There is no continuity between any of those 3 compressor female terminals on the start device. Thanks for the responses!!
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Old 11-21-2013, 06:49 AM
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If that is the case, the start device is faulty. Replace that and you should be back up and running, nice work! That start device is available below.

http://www.appliancepartspros.com/wh...ap3962960.html
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Old 11-21-2013, 08:07 AM
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So, where those 3 female terminals that plug into the compressor 3 male terminals the right ones to test? And there should be continuity between the 2 that are across from each other horizontally? Just wanted to verify I was checking the correct terminals. Thanks alot Appliance Ninja appreciate the help on this.
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Old 11-21-2013, 08:16 AM
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Yes, the one by itself is the terminal for the overload protector. The other two that are side by side are for the relay and there should be very little resistance between them, around 4-5 ohms. If they read open, that relay is bad, requiring replacement of the start device I linked you to.
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