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Leo3030  
#1 Posted : Thursday, May 9, 2013 5:31:35 AM(UTC)
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Leo3030

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There was an extended time with the last defrost and the heater created a smell from the freezer. Afterwards, the unit stayed warm. I replaced the evaporator fan, defrost time and thermostat. The fan still does not run and the unit does not cool. Could it be the start relay on the compressor?
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Joe / APP Team  
#2 Posted : Thursday, May 9, 2013 7:06:18 AM(UTC)
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Originally Posted by: Leo3030 Go to Quoted Post
There was an extended time with the last defrost and the heater created a smell from the freezer. Afterwards, the unit stayed warm. I replaced the evaporator fan, defrost time and thermostat. The fan still does not run and the unit does not cool. Could it be the start relay on the compressor?


Leo, You don't really want to start at the compressor, there are other possibilities, first. You didn't mention checking the defrost heater

Part number: AP4009926
Part number: AP4009926


or wiring. The heater should draw 29 ohms resistance, and the wiring needs to be in tact in order to complete the circuit, and the evaporator fan motor to run. The defrost thermostat will "close" when the evaporator coils reach a temperature of 15 degrees, and the fan should start to run and circulate the air. You may want to recheck the wiring at the thermostat, and harness. You may have a wiring issue based on the "smell". Presumably the new defrost timer is the correct part [AP4246797] and wired properly.

The next test is the freezer control

Part number: AP4247443
Part number: AP4247443


Make sure the switch circuit "opens" when off, and "closes" when on. and allows 120 VAC to the the defrost timer on the yellow wire. The voltage from the defrost timer to the compressor is on the blue wire (terminal #4) if the condenser fan motor is running, but the compressor is not, then it's time to check the overload, relay and compressor.
Leo3030  
#3 Posted : Thursday, May 9, 2013 12:01:48 PM(UTC)
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Leo3030

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Thanks, Joe. I had checked the heater coil and it is good. How do I check the compressor overload?
Leo3030  
#4 Posted : Thursday, May 9, 2013 12:11:14 PM(UTC)
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Leo3030

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812855]Thanks, Joe. I had checked the heater coil and it is good. How do I check the compressor overload?:)
Joe / APP Team  
#5 Posted : Thursday, May 9, 2013 1:52:59 PM(UTC)
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Originally Posted by: Leo3030 Go to Quoted Post
812855]Thanks, Joe. I had checked the heater coil and it is good. How do I check the compressor overload?:)


Leo, The overload

Part number: AP4303874
Part number: AP4303874


is similar to a thermostat.and should read a "closed" circuit across the terminals, at room temperature. Another easy check is to remove and shake it, if it rattles, it's faulty.

The start relay

Part number: AP4000197
Part number: AP4000197


should have a resistance reading of 4 to 6 ohms across terminals 2 and 3, when tested with the meter and power removed to the refrigerator. Make sure you label any wires you disconnect, it'll make things easier in the long run.
The compressor motor wingdings should have a resistance of 1.5 to 2.0 ohms resistance for the Run winding, and 8.0 to 9.0 ohms resistance for the start winding.
The start/run capacitor (if applicable) when you place the meter probes across the terminals, should deflect towards a "closed" circuit, momentarily then return to an "open" circuit.
Leo3030  
#6 Posted : Friday, May 10, 2013 5:07:27 AM(UTC)
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Leo3030

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Thanks Joe for the last update. I will let you know how this fix goes. I guess the last thing left now is the compressor if one of these two do not take care of it.
Joe / APP Team  
#7 Posted : Friday, May 10, 2013 5:31:31 AM(UTC)
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Originally Posted by: Leo3030 Go to Quoted Post
Thanks Joe for the last update. I will let you know how this fix goes. I guess the last thing left now is the compressor if one of these two do not take care of it.


Leo, Correct, you'll need to check the compressor motor winding resistances
(the next to last paragraph) and you'll need to check for a closed circuit from each compressor terminal to the compressor case, a closed circuit would indicate a shorted winding.

Check and make sure there is 120 VAC (careful here, live voltage)on the blue wire, between the condenser fan motor and the compressor overload, it could be a loose or broken wire.
Leo3030  
#8 Posted : Friday, May 10, 2013 5:35:06 AM(UTC)
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Leo3030

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Will do. Thanks again.
Joe / APP Team  
#9 Posted : Friday, May 10, 2013 10:09:00 AM(UTC)
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Originally Posted by: Leo3030 Go to Quoted Post
Will do. Thanks again.


You're Welcome !! Keep in touch
Leo3030  
#10 Posted : Sunday, May 12, 2013 7:16:52 PM(UTC)
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Leo3030

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Joe,
The overload was burned up (probably the smell) and I bought a 3 n 1 Supco product to replace the overload and start relay. I hooked up all three compressor wingdings from the Supco. It called for 2 line hook ups. I figured one was for the blue wire/black wire going to the compressor fan. I am not sure where to connect the other line wire. The only wires left over were from the return side of the compressor fan and were originally hooked on the start relay but there is no voltage there. Any help with the second line wire?
Leo
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