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I have an amana side by side fridge model SRD26VPSE and it stopped cooling. You can hear buzzing sound coming from compressor then you hear a click and it stops. After a min or so it cyles with same issue. The fan motor is running. I checked the 3 terminal posts off the compressor to ground ( scrapped paint off housing ) and they are not shorted to ground. I do not have a good accurate meter at home so i can not get accurate reading between the 3 terminals. I also bypassed the relay and hooked wires directly to compressor and same thing just hums then clicks and humming stops then cycles in a min or so. This version does not have the capacitor under the cover where wires connect to compressor. It does not have relay/capacitor/overload all together. Could i have a bad capacitor ?? where is it located ?? How can i accurately check compressor with ohm meter ? i am an electrical engineer so i do know how to use a meter
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Make a diagram of the wires to the compressor side components, then pry off the square start device. Measure ohms between the opposite input spade terminals, should be between 5 and 10 ohms. If blown open, order a new one AP4000197
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Originally Posted by: richappy  Make a diagram of the wires to the compressor side components, then pry off the square start device. Measure ohms between the opposite input spade terminals, should be between 5 and 10 ohms. If blown open, order a new one AP4000197 I used a crappy meter and it is not an open circuit between any of the contacts on the compressor. I also eliminated the relay and hooked wires directly to compressor and get same results. Humming noise, i dont want to let it hooked up directly for a period of time in fear of smoking something. Is there a start cap to this unit ?? where is it located ?? it uses AP3104672 for the overload and AP4000197 for the relay. once the humming starts there is power to all the leads going to compressor then when humming stops the overload opens up and relay opens too. I pulled relay and put meter probes in the female ends of the relay but dont get any power. if meter leads are on wires going to relay when connected to compressor i get 110volts
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If you put power to the start winding directly, you blew out the winding within less than a second.
Also, the capacitor is a run capacitor, not a start capacitor, has nothing to do with starting the compressor.
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Originally Posted by: richappy If you put power to the start winding directly, you blew out the winding within less than a second.
Also, the capacitor is a run capacitor, not a start capacitor, has nothing to do with starting the compressor. I used to rewind motors for schooling. I used leads that where going to relay
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If you have no resistance across the start device, it's blown, order a new one.
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Originally Posted by: richappy If you have no resistance across the start device, it's blown, order a new one. there is resistance but dont have a good meter for accurate reading. its almost showing a short across any 2 legs of the compressor posts
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Get a decent meter at Wall Mart, $14.95
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Originally Posted by: richappy Get a decent meter at Wall Mart, $14.95 i put a meter across 1 relay leg and overload and got 5 ohms i put a meter across 2 relay leg and overlaod and got 3 ohms i put a meter across both relay legs and got 8 ohms i put meter across the terminals in the relay and got dead short i was thimking of trying the 3 in 1 cap and see what happens
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Seems like your old start device is ok.
The use of a 3 n 1 hard start device is not recommended for use in a modern, fractional hp compressor. I will not help you install this, but you are free to do what you want.
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