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Hi, I'm desperate for my Whirlpool ED5FTGXKQ01. After a power outage of about 48 hours, my fridge started cooling and

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Old 04-03-2013, 09:32 PM
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Default No Power to Compressor & Evaporator Motor
Model Number: ED5FTGXKQ01   Brand: Whirlpool   Age: 5 - 10 years   

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Hi, I'm desperate for my Whirlpool ED5FTGXKQ01. After a power outage of about 48 hours, my fridge started cooling and after a while the circuit breaker of the house tripped, upon further diagnosing, I discovered that if I connect the refrigerator with no Earth connection, the circuit breaker does not trip, the lights of the refrigerator work, but the motor does not turn on and the evaporator does not spin. I noticed they are connected in parallel by a red and a white wire which I measured and are 0V. The two wires go to a connector in the right by the water valve, that disappears there. I suspect there is a problem on the control board but I can't reach it as I can't get past this connector, can anybody experienced with it lend a hand and tell me how do I get to the board for inspection of fuse and eventual replacement? Please don't tell me I should throw it to the garbage, it is a great refrigerator and I just can't believe they are hermetic!
THANKS IN ADVANCE!!

Attached is a picture of the connector for reference.


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Attached Images
File Type: jpg ED5FTGXKQ01 Back Connector.jpg (105.5 KB, 13 views)
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  #2 (permalink)  
Old 04-04-2013, 01:34 AM
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Seems like you have a compressor shorted to ground and the short blew out your controls. Get a meter and check for ohms to ground from any compressor pin.
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Old 04-04-2013, 04:39 AM
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Thanks for replying, richappy.
No ohms from Earth to either of the 3 pins in the compressor...
The bottom one with the one on the left measures 7 ohms, with the one on the right 3.5 ohms, and between those two on the top = 10.5 ohms.
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Old 04-04-2013, 05:47 AM
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Update: after a few hours, the circuit breaker does not trip anymore (Suspect the circuit board got wet?) and the lights work, but still no power to evaporator fan and compressor. To the left of the connector shown in the previous picture there is a patch of some metal-adhesive material, which underneath seems to have some kind of foam. Before removing it unnecessarily: is this what I need to remove to get to the driver board? Or is it somewhere else? I removed the back cover on the inside of the freezer to see if I get somewhere but it seems it is a no-no.
Please, help.
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File Type: jpg ED5FTGXKQ01 Freezer Interior.jpg (48.3 KB, 12 views)
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Old 04-04-2013, 07:56 AM
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The controls are behind the control panel, remove the rear screws, then peal off the overlay and remove the screws, then drop the control panel.
The cold control and the defrost timer can be checked for continuity, one is blown open, or you have a bad wire.
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Old 04-06-2013, 01:15 PM
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Once again, thank you VERY MUCH richappy!! I thought I'd have to deal with a circuit board but no... Great!
Now, my fridge is really acting up...
I disassembled the control panel and first I measured continuity on the cold control terminals and it was 0 ohms, OK, then I measured the red wire (compressor live) against the Neutral and got 110V. First thought: red wire got fried, disconnected or something like that so those 110V can't reach the compressor and fan... So I measured the continuity of it from the connector in the control section to the terminal that goes to the compressor: 0 ohms. What? I then measured from this terminal to the AC plug neutral: 110V. What?
So... the red wire is OK but when measuring right in the compressor and fan they had 0V! And the other wire (white) is the Neutral... How come?
I then removed the water valve to better see the connector and wiring, wiggled all the wires, nothing. I then stand up to think of it a little and after a little while, I felt air in my legs... It was the fan of the evaporator, which started spinning all by itself. I wasn't touching or moving anything when it started working... Plus there was no 'click' or anything like that. It just started... I wiggled all again to see if it would stop but no... I then connected the terminals to the compressor and voila!!! It started to cool right away!
I was VERY HAPPY but at the same time thinking of the illogical part of the situation... Which I don't have explanation for.
I then cleaned up the fridge completely, reassembled all, put it on place and went to sleep.
Next day (yesterday) when I woke up, the fridge was still working. Few hours later, still working... Compressor did not stop at all. I thought oh well, as I moved the temp control to the max and back to remove the knob to access the control section maybe that's the reason why it doesn't go off. So after 18 hours of non stop working (fridge was really cold inside) I unplugged it for it to take a 4-5 hours rest to give time to the temp control to 'settle'.
After such period, I plugged the fridge again to continue cooling... OK.
But about 30 minutes later, the circuit breaker tripped again :'(
I'm there now, if I plug the fridge, the circuit breaker trips.
I will disassemble it again once I get the time in a few hours and continue the tests and measures.
Any thoughts or recommendations for this 'paranormal' scenario?
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File Type: jpg ED5FTGXKQ01 Control Panel.jpg (70.7 KB, 11 views)
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Old 04-06-2013, 04:07 PM
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You might try spraying the cold control with a non-residue contact cleaner available at Wall Mart, just spray while turning, probably sticking.
The intermittent short is something else, may be intermittent internal short in the compressor.
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Old 04-07-2013, 01:27 PM
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Today the short is gone, I will keep an eye on it once it's back...
Now the fridge is working again. The compressor started after I manually turned the defrost control. I'm understanding it more and more.
This video: How to check a refrigerator's defrost timer. - YouTube
Helped a lot!!!
I turned the temp control to about 0 to see if it goes off...
Can't thank you enough for your help, richappy!!!!!!!!
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Old 04-07-2013, 04:35 PM
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By turning the cold control back and forth that probably cleared out any contamination causing it to stick.
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Old 04-07-2013, 10:17 PM
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Indeed, while it was set to about 0, compressor stopped after a while. Now I turned it to 1 and will keep on checking.
I will keep an eye on the timer too... Maybe the short is in the defrosting heater?
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