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GE Arctica not cooling properly

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Remove the back freezer panel and describe the frost pattern, total, light frost, or partial frost.

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Old 04-04-2013, 01:26 AM
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Remove the back freezer panel and describe the frost pattern, total, light frost, or partial frost.

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Old 04-04-2013, 06:21 AM
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Only light frost, as the first thing I did was to replace the defrost heating element a few months ago when this whole process began. At that time the coils were heavily frosted, and upon inspection of the heating element, the right side showed signs of being burnt, once that was replaced, I left the panel off to verify the correct operation if the defrost heater, and since then if has been working as if should.

Could it be the thermistors located either on the freezer coils, or the fresh food section evaporator, that are not sending the correct signals of how cold it needs to be, cause the fan on the fresh food side is running non stop
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Old 04-04-2013, 08:03 AM
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I would replace the ff thermistor, usually in the damper door harness. It should be around 16.6 kohm in ice water if you have a meter.
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Old 04-04-2013, 09:31 AM
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In my unit, there are a total of 4 thermistors, one in the freezer interior wall behind a grill and shunt sensor, and one in the fresh food section in the same type of location. One in the freezer, attached to the coils, and one in the fresh food side, attached to the coils/evaporator there. the two located in the walls are the ones that have been changed, so with there not being one on the dampner, would your suggestion be the evap/coils on the fresh food side then?
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Old 04-04-2013, 03:11 PM
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I would go to the motherboard and check the thermistors. You will need your schematic to check, usually J1-pin 5 is common. You may find one open.
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Old 04-20-2013, 12:11 PM
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Problem solved. The part that stabilized the temps was the thermistor attached to the coils located in the fresh food section. Grand total of repairs, both fresh food thermistors, and the defrost heating element, unit holding steady at 0 deg freezer and 37 deg fresh food.
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Old 03-08-2015, 10:01 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DouglasSimi View Post
Problem solved. The part that stabilized the temps was the thermistor attached to the coils located in the fresh food section. Grand total of repairs, both fresh food thermistors, and the defrost heating element, unit holding steady at 0 deg freezer and 37 deg fresh food.

Very nice - I am having the exact same problem... Prior to repairing the unit did you also get condensation on the fridge side? How difficult was it to change the thermistors on the fridge side?

Thank you!
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Old 06-21-2016, 07:11 PM
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[quote=DouglasSimi;806447]My issue is the fresh food side won’t cool properly. History of the unit and repairs. Since summer time 2012, the freezer would bounce between 0-10 on a normal basis, and the fridge was usually 42-49, with the temp controls set at 0 and 37. Finally got tired of food spoiling, and decided to start tearing into it. Through research, found a bad defrost heater element, one end was burnt.

I would like to add to this on my side by side my freezer was working great but fridge was not cooling. I discovered embedded in to Styrofoam at the back top is a fan that sucks cold air from the freezer. You have to remove the plastics to get to it. I was inspecting to see if the fan was running and noticed a small square door that must regulate airflow from the freezer. Mine was stuck shut so no freezer air was getting to the fresh side. I just shoved it open . Now cool air is flowing again.
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Old 06-22-2016, 05:40 PM
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Hey Rob,

That is good information... I cant get my fresh food side to cool below 39 or 40 degrees. All thermistors test good along with all other self tests but I will go in and check the damper to see if it is possibly stuck closed. Did you have to remove the entire foam enclosure to get to the damper?

Thank you.
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Old 06-23-2016, 06:20 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MadmanArctica View Post
Hey Rob,

That is good information... I cant get my fresh food side to cool below 39 or 40 degrees. All thermistors test good along with all other self tests but I will go in and check the damper to see if it is possibly stuck closed. Did you have to remove the entire foam enclosure to get to the damper?

Thank you.
I had to remove the light and the Styrofoam its taped together the actuator is inside the foam. I read its there in case the door is left open. I just removed the damper door out of the unit my fridge is staying steady and 36. Now if I can just get my new freezer fan to stop making noise.
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