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Fridge/freezer wont cool

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I don't have any cooling happening at all. No fan noise. I do have temp display on the inside doors.

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  #1 (permalink)  
Old 03-29-2013, 02:51 PM
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Default Fridge/freezer wont cool
Model Number: GE-B228JSAA   Brand: GE   Age: 1 - 5 years   

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I don't have any cooling happening at all. No fan noise. I do have temp display on the inside doors.

I pulled the back panel off. The compressor is warm, the condenser fan spins freely.
Im reading that a motor blows on GE profiles takes out the main board. I cant confirm if my model is affected. The motherboard part number is 200D4860G015.

I don't have previous experience with appliances, but am certain its a main board and/or motor issue. I do have a multimeter, and am not afraid to use it.

Any direction on what to look for is more than appreciated.


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  #2 (permalink)  
Old 03-29-2013, 03:57 PM
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I can hear a relay clicking on the main board.
I unplugged all 3 fans, and the relay is still clicking. There are 3 relays on the board, and I cant tell which one is clicking on and off.

The temperature leds are not lighting up anymore. They quit after unplugging the fridge power, and plugging back in. I hoped that it was just the fridge going in to defrost mode, but that doesnt appear to be the case.

So, main board, and what else? I would really hate to replace the main board and have it blow right away due to a bad motor.

Funny that I don't see the main board on ********, or anywhere else on line.
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Old 03-29-2013, 05:19 PM
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It looks like the main board part number I listed translates to WR55X10942

There was a recall on this board.

Im still unsure how to check the other fan motors to make sure they did not cause my issue.
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Old 03-30-2013, 04:24 PM
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Today I replaced the main board.
Everything lit up. I confirmed all fans were working, The temperature lights were reading the proper temperature (70) in both the freezer and fridge. Perfect.

I let the fridge run for a couple of hours, and now the temp is 72 degrees.
Not a good thing.

The compressor is very hot, and both the in line and out line on the freon coper lines are warm. Now what??
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Old 03-31-2013, 08:13 PM
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I guess the refrigeration guys are bored with this site, and are not posting.

I'll follow my thread thru to completion for the next guy.

Tomorrow, I'll try the compressor relay ans startup capacitor. If its not that, its the compressor. That wouldnt be good.
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Old 04-01-2013, 07:52 PM
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It turns out that the realy and run(startup?) capacitor are not readilly available, and usually the whole compressor is just replaced.

I was resigned to replacing the compressor and found a shop that could do it today. It is a 1/3 hp compressor, and replacement cost was $425.00 pretty inexpensive I thought.

The refrigeration guy came out and after checking the compressor windings impedences and for grounding. He said the comressor tested fine and tried a universal 3n1 start device by Supco. The compressor fired right up, and was nice and quiet.

He unplugged the fridge for about 5 min, and plugged it back in while checking amperage draw. No issue he said. Looks great. Buttoned up the back of the fridge and was out the door with $140.00 in his jeans.

Now, after researching these start up devices, there's lots of controversy over them. The right thing to do is to pick up the factory ordiginal parts, and just keep the 3n1 startup device as a backup. Will I? Tough to know. I'll look for a good deal on the correct relay and startup capacitor.
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