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I have a ge fridge model gsh22jfta. Will not cool. I have replaced the upper thermistor in the freezer. The

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Old 02-04-2013, 10:37 AM
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Default Will not cool
Model Number: gsh22jfta   Brand: GE   Age: 5 - 10 years   

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I have a ge fridge model gsh22jfta. Will not cool. I have replaced the upper thermistor in the freezer. The bottom one is showing 15.5 ohms. I have put in a new control board in the back. The defrost thermostat is working fine. It opens at the right temp. You can hear it when it opens. The only difference from the old to the new was the ground wires. I used the old ground wires because they are hard wired into the fridge. The compressor is running. The fan next to the compressor runs. The fan inside the freezer runs. Any other ideas? There is no thermister that I can find in the fridge side. The crisper control is a slide lever and there is a small opening between the fridge and freezer at the bottom to let cold air through I guess. I need help. Thanks

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  #2 (permalink)  
Old 02-04-2013, 12:33 PM
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Hi.

Open the rear panel in the freezer and check is the evaporator coils are covered with frost completely or only partially.
If the coils are not covered all the way there is a sealed system problem and you will need a pro.

Simon.
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Old 02-04-2013, 02:03 PM
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How can I check to see if has freon without calling a service guy. This was given to me so I do not want to sink a lot into it. The board came from ge it was 50.00 The coils have no frost.
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Old 02-04-2013, 02:22 PM
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You need a piercing valve, installed on the low side tube and the manifold gauges.
But I don't get it why would you do the checking if you will not be able to fix this problem?

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Old 02-04-2013, 02:57 PM
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What kind of pressure should it have? Which side is the low pressure side? I will repair it if it does not cost a lot. I have the gauges and freon. Is there any place to look for leaks or anything to look for such as oil residue around joints.
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Old 02-04-2013, 05:26 PM
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HI.

To find the leak I have been using the electronic leak detector.
You can soap the joints but that doesn't give you a good success rate.
The valve should be installed on the process tube which is the short one coming from the compressor.
The running pressure on the low side varies from 2 to 5 psi.

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Old 02-05-2013, 01:32 PM
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The last thing I want to do is crack open the system. Is there anything else I can check on before I do that? What piercing unit would you recommend?
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Old 02-06-2013, 01:48 PM
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Can I get a few more questions answered? I am assuming that if the compressor is vibrating that it is running. Is that right? How do you check to see if the windings are still good? I am going to check the capacitor in a few minutes. Will the defrost parts cause it not to cool if it is not frozen on the coils?
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Old 02-06-2013, 02:38 PM
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Hi.

Your compressor is most likely good electrically. It's either not pumping or there is no freon.Compare the amp draw with the rated on the tag.It's probably gonna be less.
The defrost system has nothing to do with the sealed system problem.

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Old 02-06-2013, 02:53 PM
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The cap is 12.4. That is good. Is the comp.set up like an hvac unit? The larger line is the low pressure and the smaller line is the high pressure? When I started it up after checking things. The larger line temp was around 57 to 58 degrees. The smaller line was around 70 to 71 degrees. I did read a post that said a lot of ge fridges did not have the correct amount of freon. What brand of piercing unit would you recommend?
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