[swoldhagen]

I have a number of ice maker questions but to start, I wanted to show you a question/answer posted at the end of the ice maker parts page for my fridge on this site:

Ice maker question. A while back, my icemaker went nuts and made way too much ice and then quit completely. From internet searches and browsing your site, I determined that the sensor boards were faulty so I replaced them and also the metal ice tray as the slick coating was trashed. Now I have what appears to be accurate LED operation from the board (which it was not before) but icemaker will not cycle and fill. I have attempted to run the troubleshooting diagnostics from the documentation supplied with the sensor kit but cannot get the main unit to fill with water or enter "harvest mode" and cycle the tray actuators. I cannot see how both the motor unit and sensor kit could fail at the same time. Could a bad motor cause damage to the sensors (or vice versa)? Steve for Model Number Whirlpool GS6SHAXKT01

ANSWER Hello Steve, It is possible that the icemaker motor or the emitter board could cause the other to fail. The way to put into a test mode. Take the front cover off of the icemaker. Put a jumper wire between t and h. Remove power to refrigerator for 30 seconds then reapply power. The jumping from t to h will allow the unit to bypass the thermostat and will allow to cycle. Check for water when fingers get to the 11:30 positon. If no water then check the fill tube to ensure that it is not frozen. If this is ok then cycle again and check for power to water valve when the icemaker calls for water. There should be 120 vac to the water valve when it calls for water. You can test this with a multi-meter TJMA-DMT3. Here is a link on how to use a multi-meter. How To Check Continuity With Ohmmeter
Answered by AppliancePartsPros.com | Monday, January 21, 2013

When I posted that question, the ice harvesting fingers were in the "home" position. As I started to troubleshoot this evening, I noticed they were at 6 o'clock (dead bottom of the ice tray) and stopped. So, I started with the first step above and jumpered the T and H pins on the motor control. Drop power to the fridge for 30 seconds and restore. As I opened the freezer door, noticed that the fingers were moving (I could hear the tickety-tick of the motor turning them), then they stopped at around midnight. No water. No more movement. Jumper still in place, I try again with the power down/up. No effect. I am thinking I have a bad motor assembly but I have other questions before I order more parts.

Since I have already replaced the optics and they appear to be working, I was wondering if there are any other "hidden" electronics? I see a plug for the ice maker motor/tray assembly. I know there are also plugs for both the optics boards and there is a connection to the solenoid valve for letting water in. Is that it? Are there any other hidden items that contribute to the function of the ice maker? It seems that the motor assembly controls the solenoid for water, the ice harvesting, the heating of the tray element during harvest, pretty much everything. If the motor is bad, nothing works.

I tested the water valve by swapping the connectors on the two valves. Water flows into the tray and the line is not frozen. I also noticed that the tray heating element was on during my test as my wife was helping me by checking for water and "burnt" her fingers on the tray (I think she was just startled to find something HOT in the freezer).

Seems to me everything checks but the motor assembly. Its function seems haphazard, at best. I am thinking replacing it is the next (hopefully last) logical step. This is what I am ordering if I can get a confirmation on my logic above.

Whirlpool W10190935 Ice Maker Control Module - AppliancePartsPros.com

Thanks,
Steve

[Gene]

Hi Steve,

I'm sorry you did not post your questions on the forum earlier. It could save you some time and money because ice makers do not worth any repair due to very low rate of success.

As far as I understood you already replaced the ice mold and now you are going to replace the control module. Did you check the thermostat for continuity while the ice maker was dismantled? Did you know that you have to use an alumilastic cement between the sensing part of the thermostat and the mount face to provide a positive and constant transfer of temperature and reduce the possibility of an air gap.

If you did not then it's not too late to do it when you will replace the control module. But, the control module will cost you $54.16 and the alumilastic cement will cost you another $24.72. It comes to almost $80. On the other side the new ice maker will cost you $116.53 but it will make the repair much more reliable.

- The alumilastic cement Part number: 4317852

- The ice maker assembly Part number: 2198597

Here are the breakdown diagrams and Parts for Whirlpool GS6SHAXKT01 Refrigerator - AppliancePartsPros.com

Gene.

[swoldhagen]

Thanks Gene.

I had no idea there was a cement that's required. But I agree with you on the cost difference between the whole unit vs. two parts when you factor in new unit reliability. I was actually looking at that whole unit a week ago when you put the link in another post. The only reason I didn't do it was the compatibility checker said it was not the right unit for my fridge. Certainly looks like the right one to me and I could not find another whole unit that said it was OK for my model number. I think i will just order this and be done with it. With all the troubleshooting I have done, I am confident this will fix it.

Thanks again,
Steve

[Gene]

You are welcome Steve. Good luck and keep us posted.

Gene.