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Hello everyone Background on the problem unit: Unbeknown to me, the unit was running and in this condition for 6

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Old 09-27-2009, 02:19 AM
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Question Compressor starts for a few seconds and switches off
Model Number: MSD2757   Brand: Maytag   Age: 5 - 10 years   

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Hello everyone
Background on the problem unit:
Unbeknown to me, the unit was running and in this condition for 6 months prior to receiving it.
I was aware of the following:
Refrigerator warm and Freezer with a back wall full of ice fairly thick.
Thawed completely and the unit sat unattended for 2-3 three weeks unplugged.
Replaced the adaptive defrost timer board with the new plastic housing version of the same.
Re-assembled, plugged the unit in only to discover that the compressor would come on for 2 seconds or so and immediately shut off.
(The age of the unit may be slightly more than 10 years, I am not sure.)

Any HELP would be very much appreciated; thank you in advance.

Nic


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Last edited by Nic2009 : 09-27-2009 at 02:23 AM. Reason: To include a further note on the possible age of the unit.
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  #2 (permalink)  
Old 09-27-2009, 05:22 AM
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Default PART II: Suppliment

Quote:
Originally Posted by Nic2009 View Post
Hello everyone
Background on the problem unit:
Unbeknown to me, the unit was running and in this condition for 6 months prior to receiving it.
I was aware of the following:
Refrigerator warm and Freezer with a back wall full of ice fairly thick.
Thawed completely and the unit sat unattended for 2-3 three weeks unplugged.
Replaced the adaptive defrost timer board with the new plastic housing version of the same.
Re-assembled, plugged the unit in only to discover that the compressor would come on for 2 seconds or so and immediately shut off.
(The age of the unit may be slightly more than 10 years, I am not sure.)

Any HELP would be very much appreciated; thank you in advance.

Nic
It seems to be acting like an overload protector for the compressor.
Not sure why or what would cause an overload if this is the case.
Perhaps running 6 months in this condition would have more to do with this particular symptom and consequent failure?
It seems overload protectors I have come across before either here or on a/c units; any suggestions or confirmations?
Thanks again!

Thoughts, comments are very much appreciated!

Nic

Last edited by Nic2009 : 09-27-2009 at 05:30 AM. Reason: To include f.irst response in second reply
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  #3 (permalink)  
Old 09-27-2009, 10:40 AM
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Default

Quote:
Quote:
Originally Posted by Nic2009 View Post
Hello everyone
Background on the problem unit:
Unbeknown to me, the unit was running and in this condition for 6 months prior to receiving it.
I was aware of the following:
Refrigerator warm and Freezer with a back wall full of ice fairly thick.
Thawed completely and the unit sat unattended for 2-3 three weeks unplugged.
Replaced the adaptive defrost timer board with the new plastic housing version of the same.
Re-assembled, plugged the unit in only to discover that the compressor would come on for 2 seconds or so and immediately shut off.
(The age of the unit may be slightly more than 10 years, I am not sure.)

Any HELP would be very much appreciated; thank you in advance.

Nic
It seems to be acting like an overload protector for the compressor.
Not sure why or what would cause an overload if this is the case.
Perhaps running 6 months in this condition would have more to do with this particular symptom and consequent failure?
It seems overload protectors I have come across before either here or on a/c units; any suggestions or confirmations?
Thanks again!

Thoughts, comments are very much appreciated!

Nic
Here's the part I believe is suspect.

Part Details - WHIRLPOOL OVERLOAD, part number: AP4072841

http://www.appliancepartspros.com/Pa...NvdG9ocHRyYXAv

Nic
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Old 09-27-2009, 10:49 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nic2009 View Post
Could be, but replace the relay along with it.
If those items dont take care of it then most likely the compressor is bad.
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Old 09-27-2009, 01:33 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by glen65 View Post
Could be, but replace the relay along with it.
If those items dont take care of it then most likely the compressor is bad.
Thanks Glen
I understand I can also test the compressor by bypassing the overload limit. I may try that first.
I thank you again for your response.
Nic
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Old 09-27-2009, 02:53 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nic2009 View Post
Thanks Glen
I understand I can also test the compressor by bypassing the overload limit. I may try that first.
I thank you again for your response.
Nic
NO!
You could end up burning out one of the compressor windings.
Just replace the relay and over load first.
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Old 10-22-2009, 06:12 PM
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Hey Glen
Quote:
Originally Posted by glen65 View Post
NO!
You could end up burning out one of the compressor windings.
Just replace the relay and over load first.
The parts arrived and neither resolved my issue.

You mentioned compressor would be a likely culprit, I was wondering if the start capacitor could maybe still be the problem?

Let me tell ya what I observed.

First of all, this capacitor appears as new as the day it was installed, although that could mean it too is about 10 years old. I have seen capacitors on a/c units bulge or leak, when they fail.

I understand there is a primative test using an ohm meter, but the capacitor should demonstrate some type of charge if it is at least somewhat functinal or so I understand.

I set my ohm meter to reveal the most finite changes possible.
(I am not sure is this is the acceptable setting for my digital meter does not a setting for testing capacitors or microfarans.)

The capacitor was fully discharged perhaps due to higher start demand load; just therorizing. I attempted to discharge it further after removing the terminals and the result was it was already discharged.

The way this test is performed, as I understand it, is that once the capacitor is discharge, you set the ohm meter to resistance, connect + to + and - to - terminals and there should be a continous change on my (digital) meter as the 9 volt battery attempts to charge the capacitor. If so, then the capacitor is at least somewhat functional. Well if all this is true, then the capacitor failed the test.
Are you familiar with this test and do you believe I did it correctly?

Or would you say because the unit does attempt and cycle for 1-2 seconds, if that, that the capacitor and it's clean appearance would cast doubt on that part being a issue?

Thanks again, in advance Glen, let me know what ya think.
Nic

Last edited by Nic2009 : 10-22-2009 at 07:05 PM. Reason: to clarify
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Old 10-23-2009, 07:50 AM
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You are talking about a run capacitor, all modern compressors do not use a start capacitor.
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Old 10-23-2009, 08:16 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by richappy View Post
You are talking about a run capacitor, all modern compressors do not use a start capacitor.
Hi Ric!
Thank you for your response.
Are you familiar with any tutorial videos or documents with changing out today's modern refrigeration compressors.
For lack of external valves, apparently these compressors are sealed internally, until energized in spite of having the ends capped or sealed.
I have access to everything I would need, guages, lines, vaccum pump, brazing rod, etc....

Thanks again, Nic
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Old 10-23-2009, 10:41 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nic2009 View Post
Hey Glen
The parts arrived and neither resolved my issue.

You mentioned compressor would be a likely culprit, I was wondering if the start capacitor could maybe still be the problem?

Let me tell ya what I observed.

First of all, this capacitor appears as new as the day it was installed, although that could mean it too is about 10 years old. I have seen capacitors on a/c units bulge or leak, when they fail.

I understand there is a primative test using an ohm meter, but the capacitor should demonstrate some type of charge if it is at least somewhat functinal or so I understand.

I set my ohm meter to reveal the most finite changes possible.
(I am not sure is this is the acceptable setting for my digital meter does not a setting for testing capacitors or microfarans.)

The capacitor was fully discharged perhaps due to higher start demand load; just therorizing. I attempted to discharge it further after removing the terminals and the result was it was already discharged.

The way this test is performed, as I understand it, is that once the capacitor is discharge, you set the ohm meter to resistance, connect + to + and - to - terminals and there should be a continous change on my (digital) meter as the 9 volt battery attempts to charge the capacitor. If so, then the capacitor is at least somewhat functional. Well if all this is true, then the capacitor failed the test.
Are you familiar with this test and do you believe I did it correctly?

Or would you say because the unit does attempt and cycle for 1-2 seconds, if that, that the capacitor and it's clean appearance would cast doubt on that part being a issue?



Thanks again, in advance Glen, let me know what ya think.
Nic
Rig up a standard 100 watt light bulb to a test cord. (you can use the
AC voltage at the frig if you want)
Then hook the run capacitor "in series" like you would a switch.
When you plug the setup in the bulb should light but not fully.
Measure the AC voltage across the two terminals of the bulb itself.
I believe this is a 20uf cap so the voltage should measure somewhere around 80-90 volts.

Last edited by glen65 : 10-23-2009 at 10:44 AM.
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