[Nic2009]

Hello everyone
Background on the problem unit:
Unbeknown to me, the unit was running and in this condition for 6 months prior to receiving it.
I was aware of the following:
Refrigerator warm and Freezer with a back wall full of ice fairly thick.
Thawed completely and the unit sat unattended for 2-3 three weeks unplugged.
Replaced the adaptive defrost timer board with the new plastic housing version of the same.
Re-assembled, plugged the unit in only to discover that the compressor would come on for 2 seconds or so and immediately shut off.
(The age of the unit may be slightly more than 10 years, I am not sure.)

Any HELP would be very much appreciated; thank you in advance.

Nic

[Nic2009]

Originally Posted by Nic2009

Hello everyone
Background on the problem unit:
Unbeknown to me, the unit was running and in this condition for 6 months prior to receiving it.
I was aware of the following:
Refrigerator warm and Freezer with a back wall full of ice fairly thick.
Thawed completely and the unit sat unattended for 2-3 three weeks unplugged.
Replaced the adaptive defrost timer board with the new plastic housing version of the same.
Re-assembled, plugged the unit in only to discover that the compressor would come on for 2 seconds or so and immediately shut off.
(The age of the unit may be slightly more than 10 years, I am not sure.)

Any HELP would be very much appreciated; thank you in advance.

Nic

It seems to be acting like an overload protector for the compressor.
Not sure why or what would cause an overload if this is the case.
Perhaps running 6 months in this condition would have more to do with this particular symptom and consequent failure?
It seems overload protectors I have come across before either here or on a/c units; any suggestions or confirmations?
Thanks again!

Thoughts, comments are very much appreciated!

Nic

[Nic2009]

It seems to be acting like an overload protector for the compressor.
Not sure why or what would cause an overload if this is the case.
Perhaps running 6 months in this condition would have more to do with this particular symptom and consequent failure?
It seems overload protectors I have come across before either here or on a/c units; any suggestions or confirmations?
Thanks again!

Thoughts, comments are very much appreciated!

Nic

Here's the part I believe is suspect.

Part Details - WHIRLPOOL OVERLOAD, part number: AP4072841

http://www.appliancepartspros.com/Pa...NvdG9ocHRyYXAv

Nic

[glen65]

Originally Posted by Nic2009

Here's the part I believe is suspect.

Part Details - WHIRLPOOL OVERLOAD, part number: AP4072841

http://www.appliancepartspros.com/Pa...NvdG9ocHRyYXAv

Nic

Could be, but replace the relay along with it.
If those items dont take care of it then most likely the compressor is bad.

[Nic2009]

Originally Posted by glen65

Could be, but replace the relay along with it.
If those items dont take care of it then most likely the compressor is bad.

Thanks Glen
I understand I can also test the compressor by bypassing the overload limit. I may try that first.
I thank you again for your response.
Nic

[glen65]

Originally Posted by Nic2009

Thanks Glen
I understand I can also test the compressor by bypassing the overload limit. I may try that first.
I thank you again for your response.
Nic

NO!
You could end up burning out one of the compressor windings.
Just replace the relay and over load first.

[Nic2009]

Hey Glen

Originally Posted by glen65

NO!
You could end up burning out one of the compressor windings.
Just replace the relay and over load first.

The parts arrived and neither resolved my issue.

You mentioned compressor would be a likely culprit, I was wondering if the start capacitor could maybe still be the problem?

Let me tell ya what I observed.

First of all, this capacitor appears as new as the day it was installed, although that could mean it too is about 10 years old. I have seen capacitors on a/c units bulge or leak, when they fail.

I understand there is a primative test using an ohm meter, but the capacitor should demonstrate some type of charge if it is at least somewhat functinal or so I understand.

I set my ohm meter to reveal the most finite changes possible.
(I am not sure is this is the acceptable setting for my digital meter does not a setting for testing capacitors or microfarans.)

The capacitor was fully discharged perhaps due to higher start demand load; just therorizing. I attempted to discharge it further after removing the terminals and the result was it was already discharged.

The way this test is performed, as I understand it, is that once the capacitor is discharge, you set the ohm meter to resistance, connect + to + and - to - terminals and there should be a continous change on my (digital) meter as the 9 volt battery attempts to charge the capacitor. If so, then the capacitor is at least somewhat functional. Well if all this is true, then the capacitor failed the test.
Are you familiar with this test and do you believe I did it correctly?

Or would you say because the unit does attempt and cycle for 1-2 seconds, if that, that the capacitor and it's clean appearance would cast doubt on that part being a issue?

Thanks again, in advance Glen, let me know what ya think.
Nic

[richappy]

You are talking about a run capacitor, all modern compressors do not use a start capacitor.

[Nic2009]

Originally Posted by richappy

You are talking about a run capacitor, all modern compressors do not use a start capacitor.

Hi Ric!
Thank you for your response.
Are you familiar with any tutorial videos or documents with changing out today's modern refrigeration compressors.
For lack of external valves, apparently these compressors are sealed internally, until energized in spite of having the ends capped or sealed.
I have access to everything I would need, guages, lines, vaccum pump, brazing rod, etc....

Thanks again, Nic

[glen65]

Originally Posted by Nic2009

Hey Glen
The parts arrived and neither resolved my issue.

You mentioned compressor would be a likely culprit, I was wondering if the start capacitor could maybe still be the problem?

Let me tell ya what I observed.

First of all, this capacitor appears as new as the day it was installed, although that could mean it too is about 10 years old. I have seen capacitors on a/c units bulge or leak, when they fail.

I understand there is a primative test using an ohm meter, but the capacitor should demonstrate some type of charge if it is at least somewhat functinal or so I understand.

I set my ohm meter to reveal the most finite changes possible.
(I am not sure is this is the acceptable setting for my digital meter does not a setting for testing capacitors or microfarans.)

The capacitor was fully discharged perhaps due to higher start demand load; just therorizing. I attempted to discharge it further after removing the terminals and the result was it was already discharged.

The way this test is performed, as I understand it, is that once the capacitor is discharge, you set the ohm meter to resistance, connect + to + and - to - terminals and there should be a continous change on my (digital) meter as the 9 volt battery attempts to charge the capacitor. If so, then the capacitor is at least somewhat functional. Well if all this is true, then the capacitor failed the test.
Are you familiar with this test and do you believe I did it correctly?

Or would you say because the unit does attempt and cycle for 1-2 seconds, if that, that the capacitor and it's clean appearance would cast doubt on that part being a issue?



Thanks again, in advance Glen, let me know what ya think.
Nic

Rig up a standard 100 watt light bulb to a test cord. (you can use the
AC voltage at the frig if you want)
Then hook the run capacitor "in series" like you would a switch.
When you plug the setup in the bulb should light but not fully.
Measure the AC voltage across the two terminals of the bulb itself.
I believe this is a 20uf cap so the voltage should measure somewhere around 80-90 volts.