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Frigidaire freezer not freezing

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Freezer high temp alarm went off and temperature showed 24F. Reset the alarm, however later I looked at the panel,

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  #1 (permalink)  
Old 11-01-2012, 10:17 AM
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Default Frigidaire freezer not freezing
Model Number: LFFH17F7HWC   Brand: Frigidaire   Age: 1 - 5 years   

Appliance Parts from AppliancePartPros.com


Freezer high temp alarm went off and temperature showed 24F. Reset the alarm, however later I looked at the panel, and it showed OF (off). Reset the panel and the freezer came back on but temperature never got below 31F. I unplugged the freezer to reset panel as per Frigidaire and got same results. I inspected the front door panel, unplugged it and replugged to ensure pins were seated securely. Temperature now shows fluctuations between 50 and 80 variable, high temp light still on however no alarm sounding. Freezer appears to be somewhere around 31F on the inside (I will get a thermometer and check it more accurately). Items are not frozen but there is some cooling go on. I can hear the compressor running, have pulled the unit out and the compressor is warm. Dont know where to start troubleshooting or which parts to start checking. Any suggestions?


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  #2 (permalink)  
Old 11-02-2012, 03:47 AM
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Here are your parts
Parts for Frigidaire LFFH17F7HWC Freezer - AppliancePartsPros.com

See the attachment for the tech sheet.

You can hear the compressor and it is warm, could you also feel it vibrating?
Is the compressor on all the time?

Is the evaporator fan running? If not it may be your problem. Measure the voltage across it. If it is 120 volts and it is not running replace it.

If the fan is on and the compressor runs all the time )except if it goes into a defrost cycle), remove the cover in the freezer so you can inspect the evaporator coils. Be sure that the compressor has run fora couple hours, if you inspect the coils shortly after a defrost then you may end up with an incorrect diagnosis.

If there is no frost or frost in only one area (usually where the freon enters the coils) you have a sealed system problem. This will be an expensive repair as you need a pro.

If the coils are iced/frosted over to the point that the fan cannot pull air through them, you have a defrost problem.

Do not let them de-ice.

Manually force a defrost cycle, see the diagnostics below.
Now check the defrost heater to see if it is on.
Be careful you do not want to burn your fingers.
If the heater is on then the control board (Item 151 in Door Parts section) needs replacing

If not on.
Unplug the unit.
Remove the wire for one side of the heating element (Item 14 in System Parts section ) from the wiring and measure it for continuity, usually around 20 ohms or so.

If the heater is OK
Remove one wire to the defrost thermostat (Item 20 in System Parts section) and measure it, should be 0 ohms when frozen. Note that it opens just above freezing so must be frozen to check it. Also inspect it, if it is bulged at all replace it even if it measures OK.

If both the above are OK then odds are the board is toast.
Best way to test this is a live test to see if you have 120 volts across the heater/defrost thermostat combo.

Service Diagnostic Mode
To enter service diagnostics mode, place the control in
the lock mode by pressing and holding Control Lock key
for 5 seconds. Then press and hold the Up and Down
keys simultaneously for 5 seconds. When diagnostics
mode is entered, the following information will be
displayed for two seconds at a time. The system will
then wait for load testing for 10 seconds, exit diagnostic
mode automatically, and assume the default temperature
setting. If load testing is performed, a 10 second wait
cycle is re-established after each key press.
• Three short confirmation beeps are issued.
• Left digit displays “8”.
• Left digit blanks and second digit displays “8”.
• The following LEDs are illuminated: (-), (ºC), (ºF),
(HRS), (Door Ajar), (Power Loss). Blanked after 2
seconds.
• The following LEDs are illuminated: (Hi Temp),
(Duration), (Quick or Extreme Freeze), (Control Lock)
Blanked after 2 seconds.
• Door Switch Status with tone (“dO” or “dC”)
• Displays “ld” (model ID) with tone.
Type from serial plate
Model Description Model #
21cf 0
17CF 1
14cf 2
• Displays Model ID.
• Displays “5F”, (Software Version) with tone.
• Displays “00”
• Displays Software Version #
• Thermistor Status with tone (“tO” for open, “tC” for
closed or “--” for good thermistor).
• Tone and enters Load Test mode for 10 seconds.
• Press Down key. Displays “HE” and turns on heater.
• Press Up key. Displays “CP” and turns on
compressor.
• Press Temp Display key. Displays “LA” and
illuminates cabinet lamp.
Attached Images
File Type: pdf LFFH17.pdf (26.7 KB, 20 views)
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  #3 (permalink)  
Old 12-02-2014, 05:30 PM
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Default Similar issue, resolved

Many thanks to these excellent instructions, I was able to get my freezer working again. I think the compressor relay was sticking, when in test mode I couldn't get the compressor to operate, gave the front panel a knuckle rap (based on another forum comment elsewhere) and suddenly I could hear the relay click and compressor operate. I'll still need to consider replacing the relay card, might just chalk it up to weather conditions, 70 and humid yesterday, 30 and freezing rain today.
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