[cmc66]

I believe I have my fridge problem narrowed to the ptc. I received the replacement part but it only has 2 connectors while the old one has 3 (2 from the capacitor and 1 from the overload) The parts supplier assures me this is the correct replacement part but has been otherwise useless. Is there a way to connect this new part or is it possible I also need a different overload to accompany the new pts as it is not compatible with my old overload.

[rickgburton]

Nothing comes up with model number

[cmc66]

Originally Posted by rickgburton

Nothing comes up with model number

Its a danby fridge and parts are all supposed to be compatible with dff9100
my old ptc is 6r8md3 and the replacement sent was dff9100.46
A photo should also be attached

[rickgburton]

I'll assume your capacitor is a run capacitor. There are only two wires that supply power to the compressor. The overload connects to the common terminal on the compressor. That's where one wire goes (doesn't matter which one) the PTC device connects to the start terminal and the run terminal on the compressor. The other wire connects to the terminal over the run terminal. The three compressor pins are in a triangle configuration. The top of the triangle is the common terminal. On the bottom of the triangle, start terminal on left and run terminal on the right. So when you connect the overload and PTC device, one wire on top and one on bottom right. The capacitor connects to the two terminals on the new PTC device

[cmc66]

There is a 2 wire set from the capacitor and another 2 wire set which with the old ptc one wire connects to the 3rd prong on the ptc and the other to the overload. The compressor starts and hums for 10-15 secs and then it clicks off.
When I connect the ptc to the capacitor and just connect 1 of the other wires to the overload (tried both) and leave one disconnected the fridge will not come on when plugged back in.
It looks to me with the other 2 wire set one is coupled with the black from the power cord and the other runs with other wires up towards the freezer where all the other connections are.
Is it safe to assume then that although the part supplier reassures me this is the proper replacement part that It cannot work and I need on with the 3rd connection on the ptc.
Also I tested the compressor because I wasn't going to repair the fridge if it was shot. The common to the start read approx. 6ohm as did the common to the run. The start to the run read approx. 12ohm so it should be in good
shape since 6+6=12?
Thanks a lot for all your help. I've been trying to troubleshoot this thing for way too long.

[rickgburton]

Originally Posted by cmc66

There is a 2 wire set from the capacitor and another 2 wire set which with the old ptc one wire connects to the 3rd prong on the ptc and the other to the overload.

Sorry, but I couldn't make heads or tails out of that sentence. Take a pic of the old parts on the compressor and I'll draw you a picture

[richappy]

The two power wires from the refigerator go to the overload and the right pin of the ptc. The run capacitor must be wired between the opposite ptc terminals. You will need to splice wires to do this. If the old ptc device was wired that way, you are probably ok. If not, you have probably burnt open/burned the start winding of the compressor. It is not possible to verify correct wiring as the schematic will not show that.
Usually, the higher resistance as measured from the top, common terminal of the comprerssor and to one of the botom terminals designates the start winding and the other bottom terminal, the run winding.On most compressors, the bottom, left terminal is the start winding. To observe the difference, you would need an accurate, digital meter.
If you have the old ptc, hold the device with the tab on the top and the input spade terminals facing you. The resistance from the right spade terminal to the right output compressor terminal must be a short. The resistance from the same spade terminal to the left output terminal should show about 5 ohms.If open,it is blown. If the new ptc device measures correctly, you have the right ptc device.
Also, on this forum I have stated often, the compressor windings can be a charred mess and still show perfectly "normal" resistance with a 9 volt meter!

[cmc66]

Originally Posted by richappy

The two power wires from the refigerator go to the overload and the right pin of the ptc. The run capacitor must be wired between the opposite ptc terminals. You will need to splice wires to do this. If the old ptc device was wired that way, you are probably ok. If not, you have probably burnt open/burned the start winding of the compressor. It is not possible to verify correct wiring as the schematic will not show that.
Usually, the higher resistance as measured from the top, common terminal of the comprerssor and to one of the botom terminals designates the start winding and the other bottom terminal, the run winding.On most compressors, the bottom, left terminal is the start winding. To observe the difference, you would need an accurate, digital meter.
If you have the old ptc, hold the device with the tab on the top and the input spade terminals facing you. The resistance from the right spade terminal to the right output compressor terminal must be a short. The resistance from the same spade terminal to the left output terminal should show about 5 ohms.If open,it is blown. If the new ptc device measures correctly, you have the right ptc device.
Also, on this forum I have stated often, the compressor windings can be a charred mess and still show perfectly "normal" resistance with a 9 volt meter!

Can the compressor be that "charred mess" and still run? I connected the old ptc back again last night and everything was running seemingly normal for maybe 8 hours except it still isn't cooling. Compressor was running and could hear the sound of coolant. I advanced the defrost timer and turned the cold control off and on a few times during that time. Late last night it got back to the hum for 10-15 seconds and clicked off when trying to start up.
I have also replaced the defrost thermostat, defrost timer and cold control.
Also going back a bit further I first experienced the problem of the fridge not blowing cold after I got back from holidays in january and it was completely warm. I unplugged it then plugged it back in and it ran fine up until recently.
Any thoughts would be quite helpful as I am almost ready to give up!

[richappy]

If the compressor was vibrating, but the evaporator coils where not cold, you have a bad refrigerant leak/ bad compressor.