[EricC69]

Hi,

My refrigerator was intermittently getting warm then getting cold again. The inside thermostat panel wasn't working and the coil fan stopped blowing. I unplugged the refrigerator (at which time was cold). I replaced the main board. That corrected the panel and the fan issue, but now the overload relay switch is clicking every minute or so. The compressor is getting warm, feels hot after a few seconds of touching it. I unplugged the relay switch and it doesn't rattle. Would this be a relay switch issue or is the compressor bad?

Note: There was no pin 2 wire on J1 to cut and there was not a second ground wire on the relay switch to cut as instructed on some models. My s/n starts with ML.

Thank you for your assistance.

[rickgburton]

Remove the relay/overload and look at the three pins on the compressor. They are arranged in a triangle configuration. The pin at the top of the triangle is the common terminal. The two pins below the common terminal are Start on the left and Run on the right. This configuration can also be opposite with the common terminal or top of the triangle on the bottom. Set the ohmmeter on the RX10 scale. Measure the resistance of the start windings between the Common terminal and the Start terminal. Ohmmeter should indicate between 3 and 11 ohms. Measure the resistance of the run windings between the Common terminal and the run terminal. Ohmmeter should indicate between 1 and 5 ohms. Measure between each terminal and the compressor body. Ohmmeter should indicate infinite resistance (1). Any other reading would indicate a shorted compressor.

[richappy]

Compressor resistance measurements are worthless to determince winding status.
Remove the motherboard 3 pin power connector and place a wire jumper between the mating pins on the motherboard labled comp.and line. Plug fridg in. Compressor should run, if not,but still cycles, note the wiring to the small, black ptc device and replace it with a new one.