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CYCLOPS43  
#1 Posted : Thursday, October 18, 2012 6:41:38 AM(UTC)
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CYCLOPS43

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Freezer Cooling Fine But Refridgerator Not Cooling.i Took The Panel Off Inside The Freezer An The Fan Is Working Fine But The Coil Inside Is Frozen Over Completely All The Way To The Compresser,i Mean Huge Ice Build Up I Need Help
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denman  
#2 Posted : Thursday, October 18, 2012 8:45:52 AM(UTC)
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denman

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I cannot find any info on the given model number ( ET18JKXRNRO).
tried AppliancePartsPros and the Whirlpool site.

Are you sure it is not a ET18JKXRWR0
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CYCLOPS43  
#3 Posted : Thursday, October 18, 2012 7:00:54 PM(UTC)
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CYCLOPS43

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The Model # Is Right The Refridge Is 26yrs. Old
denman  
#4 Posted : Saturday, October 20, 2012 3:29:47 AM(UTC)
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denman

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The closest I could find to your model was an ET18JKXRWR0 so the below is for that unit.
With a little luck yours will be a close match.

Here are your parts
Parts for Whirlpool ET18JKXRWR0 Refrigerator - AppliancePartsPros.com

Sounds like a defrost problem.
First remove the evaporator cover in the freezer so you can see the coils.
Do not let them de-ice.

Manually force a defrost cycle by turning the defrost timer cam (Item 4 in Cabinet Separator section ) till the fans and compressor turn off.
There is usually a hole in the cover to let you do this without taking anything apart.
Now check the defrost heater to see if it is on.
Be careful you do not want to burn your fingers.
If the heater is on then the timer needs replacing, re: it is probably stalling during it's rotation so is never getting into a defrost cycle.

If not on.
Unplug the unit.
Remove the wire for one side of the heating element (Item 33 in Unit Parts section ) from the wiring and measure it for continuity, usually around 20 ohms or so.

If the heater is OK
Remove one wire to the defrost thermostat (Item 35 in Unit Parts section ) and measure it, should be 0 ohms when frozen. Note that it opens just above freezing so must be frozen to check it. Also inspect it, if it is bulged at all replace it even if it measures OK.

If both the above are OK then odds are the defrost timer contacts are toast.
Best way to test this is a live test to see if you have 120 volts across the heater/defrost thermostat combo.
THIS FORUM IS DEAD!!!!!!!
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