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Rickman  
#1 Posted : Tuesday, July 24, 2012 12:40:53 PM(UTC)
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Rickman

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Both freezer and refrigerator not cold enough. Earlier found iced over evap and replaced defrost timer. Defrost good now but unit still too warm. With temp control turned fully one way, I get no ohm reading. Slight turn the other way and all across spectrum to the other end only registers 000.1 ohm. Based on my knowledge of resistors, I say this is bad and a likely culprit for a warm unit. Shouldn't the resistance increase moving knob from one side to the other? Would like someone to respond to my hypothesis. Side note: icemaker stopped dumping the ice a while back and I went through 4 new icemaker units with no change. I believe the heater was not engaging on any of them which makes me think wiring issue and can't help but wonder if there might be a correlation between icemaker and temp control, but also cannot swear both troubles happened at same time. Thanks.
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denman  
#2 Posted : Tuesday, July 24, 2012 4:29:20 PM(UTC)
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denman

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[COLOR="Blue"]Defrost good now but unit still too warm.[/COLOR]
Have you checked the coils again?
After you changed the timed and I assume manually defrosted the u it did it work OK for a few days?

Shouldn't the resistance increase moving knob from one side to the other?
No, it is not a variable resistor.
It is just a set of contacts that are controlled by temperature.
Sounds like it is OK.
Unit is too warm so the contacts are closed.

Is the compressor and it's fan running?
Are they cycling or on all the time or off?
Is the evaporator/freezer fan running?
Are you getting some cooling or no cooling?

[COLOR="Blue"]but wonder if there might be a correlation between icemaker and temp control,[/COLOR]
There could be the ice maker will not harvest ice unless the freezer is cold enough. I think it has to get down to about 15 degrees F.
THIS FORUM IS DEAD!!!!!!!
Rickman  
#3 Posted : Wednesday, July 25, 2012 6:17:17 AM(UTC)
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Rickman

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Thank you for your reply. Yes, I did replace the timer and it did a good defrost on it's own. Coils still clear after several days. Compressor and it's fan running and cycling. Evap fan runs well, and air flow in freezer good. Condenser coils clean and good air flow through front lower grill. Cooling but not great. I have all air deflected to refrigerator as freezer foods moved to another freezer but refrigerator still not cold enough, usually somewhere around 40-45 degrees. Never cold enough for both refrigerator and freezer. I understand about the ice not dumping if freezer is not cold enough. Hope that's it but may never know if I can't resolve this. Read a lot of literature and pretty sure I've covered everything. Cannot check charge level and do not want to invest in a repairman doing that, after already paying for timer and not having a clear direction to go in. What about thermostat malfunctioning?
denman  
#4 Posted : Thursday, July 26, 2012 3:10:54 AM(UTC)
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denman

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[COLOR="Blue"]Cannot check charge level and do not want to invest in a repairman doing that, after already paying for timer and not having a clear direction to go in.[/COLOR]
You can check the freon. Let the unit run for a couple hours. Then remove the cover in the freezer so you can inspect the evaporator coils. They should have a fairly even coating of frost.
If they have frost only in one area (usually where the freon enters the coils) then odds are high that you are low on freon.

[COLOR="Blue"]What about thermostat malfunctioning?[/COLOR]
If the compressor is running continuously (other than during defrost).
Then it is not your problem. It is turning the compressor on as it should but for some reason the unit cannot reach the set point temperature so it never turns the compressor off.
THIS FORUM IS DEAD!!!!!!!
Rickman  
#5 Posted : Thursday, July 26, 2012 5:27:36 AM(UTC)
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Rickman

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Originally Posted by: denman Go to Quoted Post
[COLOR="Blue"]Cannot check charge level and do not want to invest in a repairman doing that, after already paying for timer and not having a clear direction to go in.[/COLOR]
You can check the freon. Let the unit run for a couple hours. Then remove the cover in the freezer so you can inspect the evaporator coils. They should have a fairly even coating of frost.
If they have frost only in one area (usually where the freon enters the coils) then odds are high that you are low on freon.

[COLOR="Blue"]What about thermostat malfunctioning?[/COLOR]
If the compressor is running continuously (other than during defrost).
Then it is not your problem. It is turning the compressor on as it should but for some reason the unit cannot reach the set point temperature so it never turns the compressor off.

Thanks again. Evap coils frosted on right side and bottom row only. Wasn't as pronounced the other day but similarly uneven as I recall. Have been here with cars before: Can add freon and HOPE it is a small leak that won't get bigger. Very hard to find a small leak in circuit. Replacement of closed system prohibitive. Time for a new unit I suppose. Your thoughts?
denman  
#6 Posted : Thursday, July 26, 2012 5:41:50 AM(UTC)
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denman

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You could try adding freon if you have the necessary tools.

I agree with you that often it makes more sense to buy a new unit than pump a bunch of dollars into a unit's sealed system.
THIS FORUM IS DEAD!!!!!!!
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